Slug gun quandry
#11
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 868
Often times a slug gun with the scope mounted to the receiver will have issues like this due to the way the barrel mounts to the gun.
As mentioned above, when the gun recoils the barrel moves in relation the scope, causing your patterns to open up. Companies such as Tar-Hunt which produce some of the most accurate slug guns out there pin the barrel to the receiver to stop this independent movement.
Another possibility is that you are shooting too fast. You need to allow the barrel to cool between shots. The walls of a shotgun barrel are fairly thin and the heat can cause your gun to start throwing flyers. Granted 6" at 50 yards is pretty significant and probably not 100% heat related, but it can certainly contribute. The most I take is 2 shots before allowing the barrel several minutes to cool back to ambient temp.
One other possibility (although it would require a diferent barrel) is to use a barrel with a cantilever scope mount. In this case, the scope mount is welded directly onto the barrel. The scope and barrel come off as a single piece. Unless your scope is trashed or your mounts are loose, the gun should hold zero almost indefinitely (Mine has been zeroed for at least 3 years and has been on and off the gun repeatedly)
As mentioned above, when the gun recoils the barrel moves in relation the scope, causing your patterns to open up. Companies such as Tar-Hunt which produce some of the most accurate slug guns out there pin the barrel to the receiver to stop this independent movement.
Another possibility is that you are shooting too fast. You need to allow the barrel to cool between shots. The walls of a shotgun barrel are fairly thin and the heat can cause your gun to start throwing flyers. Granted 6" at 50 yards is pretty significant and probably not 100% heat related, but it can certainly contribute. The most I take is 2 shots before allowing the barrel several minutes to cool back to ambient temp.
One other possibility (although it would require a diferent barrel) is to use a barrel with a cantilever scope mount. In this case, the scope mount is welded directly onto the barrel. The scope and barrel come off as a single piece. Unless your scope is trashed or your mounts are loose, the gun should hold zero almost indefinitely (Mine has been zeroed for at least 3 years and has been on and off the gun repeatedly)
#12
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7
Thanks for all the input. All the loads were 3", and I have a cantilever set up, so barrel movement shouldn't affect the accuracy. I'm going to try the Hornady's and Lightfields this weekend, as they seem to work well for a lot of people. I also agree that flinching was probably a significant factor. What is a good solution for that with my setup though? I have a friend with a Lead Sled, and so zeroing in shouldn't be a problem if I use that, but I don't want to blow the truly important shot at my dream buck because I flinched. Any suggestions?
#13
They make an adjustable trigger group for the 870.They are right expensive ,around $200.00 but in my oppinion the lighter the pull the less chance of pulling off of your shot flinch included.
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
You do not need 3" slugs. Your shots are around 50 yds, and 2.75" will work just as well out to 100 yds. Switch to 2.75", unless your 870 has a 3.5" chamber.
A lengthy sight-in session with slugs is a waste of money and time for most guys, as you realize by admitting you may be flinching.
Make sure your mounts and rings are tight.
I shoot 2.75" 12 Ga. Brenneke KO Sabot Slugs (not the "regular" KO slug), and they absolutely hammer deer.
A lengthy sight-in session with slugs is a waste of money and time for most guys, as you realize by admitting you may be flinching.
Make sure your mounts and rings are tight.
I shoot 2.75" 12 Ga. Brenneke KO Sabot Slugs (not the "regular" KO slug), and they absolutely hammer deer.