jhilde

Is there anyone out there who can give me some tips on what should be a easy job. I have a Beretta Compact in 9mm, purchased new and the barrel had a small area on it where the blueing looked thin. I have blued small parts in the past and had them turn out fine, but this barrel is killing me. I have a bottle of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and a bottle of the Super Blue, but it will not go on evenly. Ends up looking splotchy. I removed all the original blueing, cleaned it with super fine sandpaper and fine steel wool---should I be cleaning it with some kind of solvent? Is my problem that the steel isn't clean enough? The gun just doesn't look right with a polished barrel---I should say to, that the two bottles of blueing Iv'e had for a few years--should I start out by buying some fresh blueing? Any other brand out there that's real good? Thanks in advance-------John

liquidorange

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNrX9LFzjUU

bigcountry

I suggest using the blue remover that comes with the birchwood kit. Alcohal is another choice.

I have yet for a cold blue come out perfect. I use the stuff just to protect the metal like after lapping rings.

skb2706

If the part that is 'thin' is alloy standard bluing or cold bluing won't work. Just a thought. Otherwise I have had no luck with cold bluing products of any kind.

Pawildman

Cold blueing is in no way comparable to a good hot-blue job, and if that's what you are expecting, it's just not gonna happen. If you are getting shading and streaking problems, it may be the base metal, and/or the preparation. Fine sandpaper and steel wool sound awfully crude for any type of quality finish with anything. A good buffing with various grit compounds and wheels followed by a proper degreasing is generally what's needed. Eastman Co. makes some nice kits for this work. Have you considered giving it a coat of flat black paint??

jhilde

Guys, thanks for the response, this is a great forum. I watched the video and have ordered a Wonder Blueing kit from Cabela's, per Joe's suggestion. A couple of you mentioned a proper cleaning of the metal and that would be part of the problem. I was hoping the final rubbing with the steel wool would be sufficiently clean, but after watching the wonder blue video, I'm sure it wasn't clean enough. Another thing is he uses some heat so it is a little more advanced than just rubbing a solution on cold steel. As far as fine sandpaper and steel wool sounding a little primitive, it's surprising how rough the finish is under the blueing on a lot of guns. The barrel on this Beretta is a long way from mirror polished and yet when blued, it'll look fine. I would never attempt to try and blue an entire rifle barrel, but this is only 4" long and should be doable by any of us. Hopefully, the Wonder Blue will work--if it works as advertised, I'll do a thread on it--

thndrchiken

Blue Wonder is is the bomb.

Ruger-Redhawk

I always had good luck with 44/40 cold bluing.


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...STANT_GUN_BLUE