Has anyone every refinished a gun before. I get mixed report. I went to the remington site and they pretty much said go to a professional. THey said you could also use linseed oil. Does anyone know what they use?? and has anyone ever done it -any pointer?

Linseed oil is a nice oil finish. Cut it 50/50 with terpintine and rub it in by hand. 5 or 6 coats.I also like pro custom oil. It is a blend of tung oil and urethane. You can leave a gloss finish or a satin finish with it. I dont like 100% urethane finishes. They give better protection but the look to much like plastic.

Remove the old finish with a chemical remover like zip strip. Make sure you sand it down. Start with 220 grit. If you like a glossier finish, work your way up to maybe 400 grit or 600 grit. Make sure you use a sanding block or it will look wavy. And be care not to take to much off or your metal wont line up. Also be carefull around sharp corners and angles.

I have finished a number of stocks. I strip them down and if there are any nicks or scratches, I iron them out. Stain then to the colour and depth you want. Useing 0000 Steel wool smothe the stock down, then apply a coat of Tung oil. Let dry, use the #0000 steel wool again and apply another coat of tung oil. Continue this till you have the finish you want. You can put anywhere from 5 to 15 coats on. Sounds like work, but it really is simple and not time consuming at all.

I like to use Formby's Tung oil. The stock will shine, but won't transmit light. And it's weather proof.

google Gun Stock Refinishing Tips. That might help.

+1 on the Tung Oil. I've used it for years. Kimber uses it on their rifles also.

Will i have to stain it? For some reason i dont think i will have to. Isnt it just a clear coat on the wood. If so does anyone know what stain remington uses?

Go to www.brownells.com and order "custom oil" gloss aresol and "certistrip"stock up on fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. Go according to directions on the stripper to remove all finish, using old toothbrush in checkered areas. Sand it all over real good, taking care to stay out of checkering. take duct, cloth, or masking tape and cover checkering EXACTLY at outer edges. spray light even coat all over, let cure, use steel wool or sandpaper to knock down finish until grain is completely filled (usually within 4 coats), repeat steps but sanding/steel wooling between coats to just rough up finish for bonding purposes, repeat steps until it looks DEEP (usually 15-20 coats), Remove tape from checkering areas, lightly work finish in checkered areas, 2-4 coats will usually do it. NOTE-be SURE to NOT attempt to spray too thick or too much per coat!!!!!!

#1) What kind of finish do you desire

#2) What is your skill level

#3) How much time do you want to dedicate to this.

My favorite method is to follow stalkingbear's advice as stated. From there I depart a bit for the final finish. I very gently and lightly knock down the sheen of the last finish coat with 0000 steel wool. Remember, VERY lightly until all glossiness is gone. I then hand rub a coat of Tru-Oil into the finish. It may take several applications to fill all fine scratches from the final rubdown. Let each coat dry thoroughly with another very light steel wooling inbetween. Knock down the last coat very lightly again, and use a good grade of automotive paste wax to finish the job. This will give you a deep-to-the-wood look, and a low luster satin finish. Beautiful.