How much do they really help?

I have a Tikka T3 .270, I'm ok for short distances, but don't have much confidence in shooting longer distance. Maybe I just need to take the .22 out for practice then try the .270....

So, I'm just wondering whether a muzzle brake would be worth the $ ?

A muzzle break is great if your gun has alot of recoil or you just don't like recoil. I really don't see how it will improve your accuracy at long distance shooting though. You need to practice that and shoot only within your comfort zone.
Muzzle Breaks do provide a fairly large reduction in recoil which is nice. I have one on my 30-06 even though I didn't really need it but it is a real pleasure to shoot now.

You need to practice with your .22 the more you shoot any gun the better you will be with the others as well. We go through a couple bricks of .22's a weekend and it really helps a lot. You can shoot over 1000 rounds for less than $30 and that will help you get more comfortable shooting. Then you can shoot a couple boxes through your .270. For a .270 there is no reason to geta muzzle break. THey are really loud and most people don't like to shoot near someone that is shooting one with a muzzle break.

I agree, shoot your 22 more to cure a flinch, if that is your problem. A muzzlebrake might reduce recoil, but it increases muzzle blast. If you hunt without hearing protection, it can really do a number on your ears. And, if you have to take a shot in the prone position, it will through more dirt/sand into your face. JMHO of course.

I can't see a muzzle brake helping on a 270. If you do get one buy some good ear protection.

Be aware that even a single shot with a braked rifle without hearing protection,can cause permanent damage to your hearing.

I believe I read somewhere that some states or countriesdo not permit them. In case you travel hunt, you might check into it.I shoot the Tikka T3 300 Win mag with my own loads which are usually max loadsand the recoil is no where near some of my other guns. You won't even notice it during the hunt. Now range shooting is a different story.

A good muzzle brake will reduce recoil impulse by 30 to 50% depending on the cartridge. A round that burns lots of powder and gives a fairly high MV will be reduced more than one that uses a heavy, slow bullet. I suspect the .270 would be cut quite a bit. The reason for this is that a brake will help a round in which the powder charge is a relatively major component of the recoil, as opposedto a round in which most of the recoil resultsfrom launching a heavybullet.

I have only owned one muzzle brake, a VAIS, which came with a used CZ .416 Rigby I bought. The maker claims this brake not only reduces recoil, but that it is not as loud as some others, which, as you probably know, is a major objection to using a brake. Use of a brake makes the use of ear protection MANDATORY any time you intend to fire the gun, if you wish to keep your hearing!

People who have shot at the bench next to mine at the range have told me the report from this rifle is no worse than a regular .30/'06!I cannot swear to this. But I can tell you that the .416 Rigby using this brake kicks noticeably less than my un-braked .375 H&H Ruger No. 1! Of course, the rifle is also a little heavier. But I have never shot the .416 with the brake off, so cannot comment on the difference.

The .270 is a relatively light recoiling rifle. Now that the ammo makers are selling the "reduced recoil" loads, my suggestionwould be to trysome of that stuff, and start shooting a lot. Slip in a full-charge round now and then, until you can shoot full-power ammo all the time (if that is even necessary for what you hunt-maybe the reduced power stuff will do what you need???) and forget the muzzle brake!