ORIGINAL: wildchild04
How much do they really help?
I have a Tikka T3 .270, I'm ok for short distances, but don't have much confidence in shooting longer distance. Maybe I just need to take the .22 out for practice then try the .270....
So, I'm just wondering whether a muzzle brake would be worth the $ ?
A good muzzle
brake will reduce recoil impulse by 30 to 50% depending on the cartridge. A round that burns lots of powder and gives a fairly high MV will be reduced more than one that uses a heavy, slow bullet. I suspect the .270 would be cut quite a bit. The reason for this is that a brake will help a round in which the powder charge is a relatively major component of the recoil, as opposedto a round in which most of the recoil resultsfrom launching a heavybullet.
I have only owned one muzzle brake, a VAIS, which came with a used CZ .416 Rigby I bought. The maker claims this brake not only reduces recoil, but that it is not as loud as some others, which, as you probably know, is a major objection to using a brake. Use of a brake makes the use of ear protection MANDATORY any time you intend to fire the gun, if you wish to keep your hearing!
People who have shot at the bench next to mine at the range have told me the report from this rifle is no worse than a regular .30/'06!I cannot swear to this. But I can tell you that the .416 Rigby using this brake kicks noticeably less than my un-braked .375 H&H Ruger No. 1! Of course, the rifle is also a little heavier. But I have never shot the .416 with the brake off, so cannot comment on the difference.
The .270 is a relatively light recoiling rifle. Now that the ammo makers are selling the "reduced recoil" loads, my suggestionwould be to trysome of that stuff, and start shooting a lot. Slip in a full-charge round now and then,
until you can shoot full-power ammo all the time (if that is
even necessary for what you hunt-maybe the reduced power stuff will do what you need???)
and forget the muzzle brake!