There's one thing about plugging the rear tang hole. It all get's pulled down with the pressure of the front guard screw and the rear tang floats into position. I wax the threads on the front guard screw, inside and out tho. Then after several hours I back the screw out about a quarter turn and then back in. I really worry about glueing in another one! And I too like paste wax, my last one I used turtle wax on.

I see on here that a lot of you seem to be afraid of the action screws becoming stuck during the bedding process. Here is what I have learned over the past 30 or so yrs. of doing this. Not to say this is the only way, just my way of doing it with little or no problems. I use stockmaker's screws, or bedding screws as some call them. I sometimes slip and call them inletting screws, which is a little different. Available from Brownells, for one. I coat them with the release agent, allow to dry and coat them again. I swab the interior of the screw holes with release agent. After the prep bedding work is done and the 'glass is applied, the prepped barreled action goes in, and the screws are inserted and tightened. I NEVER have had them stick. You can apply a good amount of torque to them. Until I properly learned how to bed a recoil lug, the biggest problem I had was getting things free after the glass was cured. bc did a great job on his first attempt. He learned a lot. He needs to do it again.

If you guys look, you can see all kinds of little holes I drilled in both the lug area and tang. they are filled with clay in the picture. I wonder if next time, I should drill out some hole in the actual lug inlet to get it to hold better in the inlett itself. I can't really get into the inlet but might be able to make some divets.

Thanks PA again for the advise. Good news is i can find these molded injected stocks just about everywhere on ebay. I might get one and try again for practice.