I took the plunge and settled on the Parker Buckbuster 175. Liked the feel and it was in my price range. Now I need the goodies. Its all new to me so need some advice. Carbon or aluminum bolts. Would like to use carbon for hunting so should I use carbon for practice. What grain field points and broadheads. Owners manual says to use 100 grain. Can I use 125 grain since bow is pushing 330 fps. Should I also use the same grain broadhead. I also don't know anything about fixed or mechanical. Guess I also need a rope cocker. One more silly question. Manual says to use half moon nocks. I saw some Easton bolts at a local shop that appeared to have the half moon but they also had a small channel in the middle of the nock. What does this do. Sorry for all the questions but I gota learn and this is a good forum for that.

There are two different types of nocks for crossbows. Half moon and Flat. Parker suggest the half moon, which are suppost to stop the string from going over or under the arrow. Carbon is more forgiving then aluminum. They bend and go back striaght. Aluminum bends then are no good. Buy and use what you can afford. In the long run carbon many be cheaper.Parker needs anarrow, because of the anti-dryfire,to shoot after you get done hunting. That is about the only way to unload a crossbow.

Hope This helps. There are other forums out there that are just as good. Use Google.

Dave

My best advice is to have about a 10 minute conversation w/ David at Wyvern Creations. Here's some thoughts to hold you until then in no particular order of importance.
1. use the nocks specified by mfgr.
2. rope cocker insures best accuracy, cuts effort in half.
3. practice w/ what you will hunt w/
4. learn about FOC
5. do not go below minimum weight arrows for your bow
6. get a range finder

Good luck, nice bow, my favorite of the Parkers.

Congrats on a new bow. First get a scope if you can use one. The Hawke MAP is great and won't break the bank. I use carbon arrows in my Cyclone. Given the draw weight of your bow, arrows with overall weight of at least 400 grains will work best and put less strain on the bow than lighter ones. Use the same kind of arrow for practice as hunting. I'd get a dozen and use half for practice half for hunting. I'm into making my own, Gold Tip Lazer II's with a 110 gr brass insert and 2" Blazwers for veins. The brass insert gives it a higher FOC (Google: 'front of center') which makes them fly more consistantly. I like mine with close to 20% FOC. Use the same weight tip as you do bropadhead. Slick Trick Magnums broadheads fly so much like my field tips that I no longer practice with broadheads. Yes, you could use a 125 gr head. It would be a bit slower but have higher kenetic energy than 100s. The specs for your bow call for moon nocks. I wouldn't take the chance of voiding the warrenty by using flat. However, I would use aluminum moons if you can. ( (A weak nock casued my first Cyclone to disintegrate). Wyvern creations makes them for Gold Tip and Easton arrows.
I'm hearing that the new Parker cocker, the one with the roller in back, is the cat's meaw. Prevents the cocker from marrring the sides of your bow. Be sure to shorten the rope on your cocker to make cocking easier. I shorten mine so that after hooking one hook I have to pull the bowstring up to the second hook some 6-8". Easier on arms and back. Also learn to use your legs while cocking by bending at the knees and straingtening them while pulling up and back.
A yardage ranger is a good investment someday. It helps you to verify your range estimates and make you better at estimating distance. My Bushnell Yardage Pro works well for archery and didn't break the bank.
You'll also need a quiver. And some meat wrapping paper
That will get you going. Holler with more questions, we're here to help. Nothing dumber than a question not asked.