Congrats on a new bow. First get a scope if you can use one. The Hawke MAP is great and won't break the bank. I use carbon arrows in my Cyclone. Given the draw weight of your bow, arrows with overall weight of at least 400 grains will work best and put less strain on the bow than lighter ones. Use the same kind of arrow for practice as hunting. I'd get a dozen and use half for practice half for hunting. I'm into making my own, Gold Tip Lazer II's with a 110 gr brass insert and 2" Blazwers for veins. The brass insert gives it a higher FOC (Google: 'front of center') which makes them fly more consistantly. I like mine with close to 20% FOC. Use the same weight tip as you do bropadhead. Slick Trick Magnums broadheads fly so much like my field tips that I no longer practice with broadheads. Yes, you could use a 125 gr head. It would be a bit slower but have higher kenetic energy than 100s. The specs for your bow call for moon nocks. I wouldn't take the chance of voiding the warrenty by using flat. However, I would use aluminum moons if you can. ( (A weak nock casued my first Cyclone to disintegrate). Wyvern creations makes them for Gold Tip and Easton arrows.
I'm hearing that the new Parker cocker, the one with the roller in back, is the cat's meaw. Prevents the cocker from marrring the sides of your bow. Be sure to shorten the rope on your cocker to make cocking easier. I shorten mine so that after hooking one hook I have to pull the bowstring up to the second hook some 6-8". Easier on arms and back. Also learn to use your legs while cocking by bending at the knees and straingtening them while pulling up and back.
A yardage ranger is a good investment someday. It helps you to verify your range estimates and make you better at estimating distance. My Bushnell Yardage Pro works well for archery and didn't break the bank.
You'll also need a quiver. And some meat wrapping paper
That will get you going. Holler with more questions, we're here to help. Nothing dumber than a question not asked.