Mojotex

I have a 23 year old Ten Point. It was the top of their line at the time it was purchased.Originally I bought it for my handicapped brother, but it was too heavy for him - any would be I suspect. I have shot it a ton at target and used it last year for the foirst time hunting. It proved to be a fine X-Bow for hunting.

DaGriz

Yup, you can change a string on a recurve crossbow in the field but.....IN 40+ years of seriousbow hunting I have NEVER had to change a string on a bow in the field,NOT on a recurve, longbow, or crossbow. Using that as a reason to choose a recurve over a compound isn't anywhere near a vaild reason.


Choosing a crossbow is likechoosing a pair of good boots; Pick the one that fits you the best!

Redclub

I called ten point a couple days ago and Randy answered the phone, Talk about service. I have 10 pt Stealth X-2. I needed a solid base for a scope got it in 2 days. Now if only I can get a better trigger?
RC

lscha

After lurking, cruising, posting and reading 4 different crossbow forumsI have learned that the folks that have Ten Points LOVE them and the folks that have Excaliburs LOVE them. They all rave about the service and choices in xbows. I supposethe other brand owners love theirs also but bottom line is shoot some and see what feels great for you!!. You really can't go wrong with the top companies. They all want your business. I'm partial and you will be too when you decide on which oneto buy whatever it is. Good Luck!

10ptCrossbow

Thanks for the good reviews guys. We try hard to make the best bows out there and we try harder to stand behind them. Made in the USA too.

Randy

fantarain

I prefer the recurve style crossbow by Excalibur. The maintenance is way much easier than a compound style. You can chance the string without a bowpress. Do any work by yourself. Excalibur bow is very solid and simple. I really like my phoenix.

Cossack

Only one thing left to do .... shoot 'em both, only you can decide. I couldn't, so I got both types.

GrumpyTom

I believe that recurves are the way to go for the reason they are simplier and easier to maintain. Yes if you check and maintain your equipment regularly you dont meed to do too many field repairs anyway like Wyvern stated ...................... BUT .......... with most hunters this is the norm and normal maintainance is not what usually causes the problems in the field. In my many years with archery hunting, I have seen string get accidently knicked with a cutting head, cutting only a few strands. Barbed wire fences are also good for damage like this. Serving come completely unraveled on new strings. With a compound bow, this could ruin your hunt with that bow. Compounds are usually quieter then the recurves, but the noise of the bow is alot less then the noise of the arrow in flight and both recurves and compounds tend to use the same arrow/head setups.

Now about the "anti dryfire and automatic safety" ............. I personally do not like them and think that they are an actuall safety hazard. Having them on a bow will lead to the shooters to depend on them and trust them instead of learnig the proper safety steps of cocking the bow, putting on the safety and installing the arrow on the rail. If you go through all of these steps every time, you will not have dryfires or will not forget to put on the safety. Remember that a mechanical device (anti dryfire and automatic safety) are devices made by humans and will fail in their life time and you will never know when that will happen. NEVER EVER TRUST A MECHANICAL DEVICE AS A SAFETY DEVICE.

Please if you have these devices on your bow, keep up with the proper safe loading cocking steps and do not reply on the devices.

greygrouse

Greetings,

Without going into great depth. I wish to start deer hunting w/a crossbow. I have hunted (years ago w/good elbows now bad) with compounds and sticks. I can now use a crossbow in Michigan and need advice on getting started.

Here are the parameters:
[ol][*]$500-700 budget for bow, arrows, target[*]I would want at least a dozen arrows w/hunting/field points interchangable. What material for shafts, fletching, nocks, etc.?[*]There is a 350fps upper limit here in MI for the setup. I value accuracy over speed.[*]Ease of cocking[*]Simplicity and ease of maintenance - the less "tweeking" the better NOTE: I can draw blood winding my watch so I need something I won't have to fool with. THIS IS BIG[*]Broadhead recommendations for deer (other animals not likely to be hunted).[*]I have a red-dot I can mount on the bow - prefer some form of glass sight to irons... need visual help[*]Hunting from a very stable, raised tree stand. Will practice both ground level and elevated. Plan to practice a lot.[*]Any and all other recommendations on gear and technique are greatly appreciated.[/ol]
I do a lot of firearms shooting, so I'm looking forward to expanding my hunting opportunities.

If this site is like other hunting/outdoor sites, I KNOW I'll get a lot of good responses. I will view all responses with respect for the writer, and thank you in advance for your advice.

Mike

PappyDave

I don't know where you live in Michigan, but the best thing to do is go to a place likes Jay's or one of the big companies and handle all the bows in your price range. Most seems to came with some sort of scope and quiver and arrows. Parker doesn't have arrows but a lot of the dealers add them to the set. Everyone has there own favorite companies. Just like autos. The warrintees for the companies do vary. Parker, Tenpoint and Excailbur have limited lifetime to original owner. Others only protect the crossbows for a year.

I was told not to worry about speed, that it can be lowered with heavyer arrows, but it's hard to find the arrows around my area. I shop Lansing, Grand Rapids, Muskegon and Clare (Jays).

Good Luck and have fun.

Dave