excal trigger job
#1
Thread Starter
Fork Horn
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: wisconsin
I posted this over at CN and figured I'd throw it up here
LOL, I'm not used to this tight nit forum jumping and repeat psoting, but here it is...
well, I said I wasnt going to do it but the tinkerer in me just got the better of me and I finally tore into my phoenix to see what the deal with the trigger was and was surprised to find that there was quite a bit of room in the design to do a little improvement
I didnt take the trigger assembly itself apart because of the sticker I found inther that states that doing so would void the warranty but form what I found there really wasnt any need to go that deep anyway...
I have quite a bit of experince doing mods to these kinds of triggers from my paintball days and from what I found there, unfortunately, isnt much that can be done as far as improving forward creep mainly because the safety requires the trigger to be as far forward as it will go to lock, however theres a world of wasted rearward travel after the trigger fires and only a fracton is need to trip the sear and to reset it during cocking, I come up with a very easy and simple way of eliminating that useless travel with a small travel limiting plate(I made mine out of plastic shim stock) and it works great, the stock travel was 9/16", with my mod its down to just a touch over 3/16", I found that it work well right at 3/16" but it was right on the edge and I wanted to give it a little play just to be safe... it doesnt do much as far as poundage and nothing for forward creep but overall travel stops right after the sear releases and it makes a major, major difference in how the bow fires, its a big improvement IMO...
I've also been testing the arrows I built(I mentioned them in a different post) and have been seeing some great results with those too, I've just been shooting the alumin ones for now(2213's and a couple test 2216's I put together) and actually wrecked one of my 2216's, I shot a group with my 2213's just to test the new trigger and didnt(and wont) do that again, those little yellow pieces on the target are parts of my feathers...
this is the group, it was shot 25 yards offhand with field points, hand cocked and its typical of the accuracy I've been getting even before the trigger mod, I'm going to move my table tomorrow(it WAS froze to the ground) and try shooting off a bench, with the trigger mod and the arrow accuracy I've been getting so far I'm pretty interested in what its going to do off a bench...
then its broadheads...
LOL, I'm not used to this tight nit forum jumping and repeat psoting, but here it is...
well, I said I wasnt going to do it but the tinkerer in me just got the better of me and I finally tore into my phoenix to see what the deal with the trigger was and was surprised to find that there was quite a bit of room in the design to do a little improvement
I didnt take the trigger assembly itself apart because of the sticker I found inther that states that doing so would void the warranty but form what I found there really wasnt any need to go that deep anyway...
I have quite a bit of experince doing mods to these kinds of triggers from my paintball days and from what I found there, unfortunately, isnt much that can be done as far as improving forward creep mainly because the safety requires the trigger to be as far forward as it will go to lock, however theres a world of wasted rearward travel after the trigger fires and only a fracton is need to trip the sear and to reset it during cocking, I come up with a very easy and simple way of eliminating that useless travel with a small travel limiting plate(I made mine out of plastic shim stock) and it works great, the stock travel was 9/16", with my mod its down to just a touch over 3/16", I found that it work well right at 3/16" but it was right on the edge and I wanted to give it a little play just to be safe... it doesnt do much as far as poundage and nothing for forward creep but overall travel stops right after the sear releases and it makes a major, major difference in how the bow fires, its a big improvement IMO...
I've also been testing the arrows I built(I mentioned them in a different post) and have been seeing some great results with those too, I've just been shooting the alumin ones for now(2213's and a couple test 2216's I put together) and actually wrecked one of my 2216's, I shot a group with my 2213's just to test the new trigger and didnt(and wont) do that again, those little yellow pieces on the target are parts of my feathers...
this is the group, it was shot 25 yards offhand with field points, hand cocked and its typical of the accuracy I've been getting even before the trigger mod, I'm going to move my table tomorrow(it WAS froze to the ground) and try shooting off a bench, with the trigger mod and the arrow accuracy I've been getting so far I'm pretty interested in what its going to do off a bench...
then its broadheads...
#5
I'm guessing that's where the bolts don't bury to the fletching. The foam insert may work for verts but..... Just had such an experience. Reworked a off brand foam target over the winter to tighten the layers. When I tried it the first time (at 15 yards) the arrow passed through the target, the mud flap backing and into the 3/8'' plywood behind that. Took some grunting to remove it!




