RE: New to this
 

Yup Dan Miller will ship the arrow pliers. Take 2 hundred lb. burlap /gunny sacks put one inside the other and fill up with old worn out clothing and plastic bags bubble paks. Shake it down good and sew both bags together at top. Don't leave metal buttons or zippers in clothing. Now if you don't cotton to all that work, just buy a yellerjacket by Morrel and shoot field pts. I use a 3-D deer target fer B'Heads but the Mckenzie Aim-right bear makes a better target.

RE: New to this
 

I have a Block target and a Block 4X4 and I find the later much better. The former leave tons of foam slivers all over the place. It is so much easier to remove arrows from a foam target if you spray the arrows with silicone or pam.
Bag targets last much longer if you hang it and once the arrows go in noticeably deeper just flip it face down and jump on it a whole bunch of times and its back to normal. I own an automotive shop and a very large amount of garbage is plastic wrapping or plastic bags. Stuff a burlap or feed bag really tight with the material (cloth as smoke suggested works well too) and tie it up and then put it in another bag and tie it up tight. Works really well but like bag targets you have to the same dance on it when the arrows start going too deep. I hope this helps! Do not spray the arrows when using bag targets.

RE: New to this
 

Well, since we drifted into targets here, lol, I shot out a Block in no time w/ Emax. Very few b-heads btw. I'm using McKenzie now for b-heads and the Morrell for field points like I posted earlier. Was plain bull-headed about getting a bag target and wouldn't have this one, except local bow monkey was tired of looking at it and let me have it for $30, lol. The absolute premier xbow target is a goofy looking black octagon multi faceted thing called the Rhinehart 18-1. I have the honor of returning the only one they ever got back, as it will not take GT LII's. It will take other carbons and all aluminums, but DO NOT shoot Gt's into it, it's easier to get last years taxes back than pull them. And yes, I tried every remedy known to man to get those arrows not to melt the foam and weld themselves in it, I really liked that target, just not enough to switch to aluminums. I also went thru every thing that my local Mal-Wart had to offer, lol. As it stands right now, Dnk has me about $200 deeper in xbows, lol. ASD, Az EZ fletcher, Chrony, Morrell Eternity, ect. Thanks Don!! [really]

RE: New to this
 

Thanks fellas, looks like the Yellow Jacket will be the way to go!!

RE: New to this
 

Just a word of warning, if that's the one w/ Bumble Bees on it, check and make sure carbons don't weld themselves in it. If you don't use carbons, no problem. I don't know of a self healing type foam [not layered like Block and my McKenzies] that won't weld carbons. I've read about some in 3-D targets that don't, even shot them on 3-D course but can't remember the name of mfgr. My bow monkey had the Bees thing and said something about me not wanting to shoot carbons at it. It may not just be the carbon matl, but the combo of it and real high speed, which I know you got w/ Quad.

RE: New to this
 

Dan, have you ever used silcone on your arrows before shooting into foam?

RE: New to this
 

Yes, and alot more stuff, everything I read about and some I thought up. I'm probably a little paranoid about this, as when I had 4 GT's in the Rhinehart, it was all my buddy and I could do to get them out. Rhinehart told me there was nothing that would prevent it, due to the speed of Emax [pre Phoenix days]. On the one 3-D shoot I went to, Ivory soap worked on some of the trargets, but still managed to just twist a shaft off right at the face of target. May have to go alum if I get into 3-D.

RE: New to this
 

I wonder how difficult the arrows out of a stryker are going to be like?