This is not my useual broadhead tests, but a complete look at how to get snuffer broadheads to work the way you want them too, as well as get the most out of them. Let me know what you think.

http://www.broadheadtests.com/broadheads5.html

I used to shoot these heads regularly. At the time I was shooting an 80# dual cam bow, shooting XX78 2514s with 5" feathers and a hard right helical. They flew excellent for me. And as for the tissue damage, oh my! This head is absolutely devastating on deer. I have never had a larger blood trail from any head I have ever shot. I gave up on them because they are made of carbon steel. They are pretty high maintenance if you shoot in a wet or very humid climate. I also had trouble keeping them sharp, I guess because the area I hunted in kept the blades rusty, or at least tried.

If they would just make a stainless version, I would probably shoot them again.

5 shot,

Nice write-up. I bought the Snuffers last year and was very impressed. Very tough head, and very easy to sharpen...I'll just add that the reps at Magnus (via emails) usually just file their heads, with no stone or strop. The customer service at Magnus, I've found, is second to none, with either quality or performance questions...

I personally had no problems with tuning, but I shoot a feather-fletched heavy set-up (500gn +) at 230 fps.

S&R

Were you testing Magnus "Snuffers" that came with glue-on adapter already installed?

Magnus "Snuffers" that are purchased without the glue-on adapters are 125 -/+ grain. The adapters, later added to the head, will add 25 - 42 grains, plus the weight of the glue.

Magnus "Snuffers" that come with the glue-on adapter installed have a combined weight of 125 -/+ grains.

If you installed adapters yourself, the weight of the head was most likely greater than 125 grains, and that would account why the broadhead would not impact where a 125 grain field point was impacting. Not because there is an inherent flight problem with the broadhead.

If the head was, in fact, 150-167+ grains in weight, and you were trying to get them to fly well using the same draw-weight, indeed you probably would have to increase the spine of the shaft if you did not wish to dial down the bow's draw-weight.

Therefore, it is important to know which "Snuffer" you tested; the head that came with the adapter installed, or the head without the adapter. If the adapters were installed by you, what was the weight of the adapter?

Before I purchased my "Snuffers" I tested them for flight and I just did not have the same flight problems you have indicated. Then too, I do not try to get my broadheads to group with fieldpoints, being each are different in configuration and will undoubtedly have different flight characteristics.

C903 I shot the 125 grn screw on heads, 125 grn glue on's with flitemate adaptors and the 145 grn glue on's. The flitemate adaptors replace that arrow insert and are shaped to glue the head directly to them. By using the flitemate adaptors I can shoot a 125 grn snuffer wich otherwise would weigh 160 grns with a standard screw on adaptor. That's another reason the heads are so versital, you can mix and match adapors to get the exact size and weight head you want.

Chris,

Excellent report. Taking that extra step and not only reviewing the head but making thoughtful suggestions for satisfactory usage was a great idea. I think I posed this question to you on one of the other forums but I wanted to post it here as well.

Is all the extra effort really worth the trouble to get these heads to fly accurately? They seem to offer a very respectable cutting diameter but is it significant enough to warrant all the trouble versus shooting something that is more easily tunable? In your opinion ofcourse.

5 shot:

To be fair to a quality product that has been around awhile, a few things need to be pointed out regarding your evaluation of your experience with tuning the "Snuffer" heads.

First: Being the information with respect to tuning the broadheads was tied together with the information about your test results regarding penetration and durability, one could mistakenly get the impression from "much said" that it is difficult and time consuming to tune the "Snuffer" heads to obtain accurate flight.

Second: Much of the necessary tuning aspects that you have stated or implied is specific to the "Snuffer" broadhead is misleading.

ï€* All broadheads, regardless of brand and type, can (sometimes) have an alignment (balance) problem, or seemingly have an alignment (balance) problem, if other factors come into play

ï€* e.g., bad run of stock, insert end of shaft was cut on a bias, inserts were over-glued and some of the glue has overly concentrated in one spot, shaft may be slightly bent, inappropriate stabilizing of shaft, incorrect shaft spine vs. draw-weight, etc,

ï€* and/or the person uses incorrect methods and processes.

Third: All the rhetoric regarding the fletch size, number of fletch, angle of fletch that was required for you to get your "Snuffer" mounted shafts to group, is also misleading.

ï€* Since the beginning of time, it has been known and generally accepted that broadhead mounted shafts are best stabilized using at least a 5" helical fletch. Most often, when a person is using a 4-fletch system with 4" fletching, the 4th fletch is simply adding back the "stabilizing surface" that has been subtracted by using 4" fletch rather than (3) 5" fletch.

Fourth: All the changing of weights of the fieldpoints to match the weight (grains) of the broadhead was unnecessary and (again) misleading.

ï€* Regardless of what the manufacturer claims a particular broadhead weighs, it is an absolute that any broadhead should always be weighed to determine actual weight and to determine and correct any weight variance between the heads before mounting the heads to a shaft.

ï€* Once the weight of a broadhead is (factually) known, then the draw-weight of the bow needs to be appropriate for the arrow setup being shot. Which means that weight of the head and the shaft spine and length become the guide.

ï€* In my opinion, you came in the back door of the proper method, which resulted in further complicating the process and compounding the belief that all the flight (grouping) problems were strictly caused by the "Snuffer" broadhead.

ï€* I have used similar heads in the past and have never had the tuning problems that are indicated here. I also believe that most will not have the problems that you had if they use the correct methods and process for mounting the broadheads and tuning the setup.

Last: As for sharpening fixed blade steel heads and keeping them sharp and preventing rust; again, I have not had great problems. Granted, stainless is hard and will not rust as easy as carbon steel, however it is also a fact that a quality carbon steel with a good edge actually cuts better than a stainless edge and is much easier and faster to get a good edge on carbon steel than on stainless steel.

ï€* As for having to keep the carbon edge sharp, that is true. However, does that mean that other broadheads made of stainless steel can constantly be shoved in and out of quivers, shot into targets, exposed to dirt and moisture, and for the entire season, or longer, never require dressing or resharpening? Some incorrectly believe so.

ï€* Once I get an edge on a carbon steel blade, which I do not find difficult to do, I keep the heads slightly treated with a protective lubricant and I always give the edges a quick honing before I head for the field. I do the same with stainless steel blades.

A bit more required effort, correctly done, often provides better results regardless the product used.

Sorry, 5 shot, I consider your experience with the "Snuffer" broadheads to be strictly an individual experience and nowhere near an appropriate evaluation of the broadhead. Therefore, I do not believe that your evaluation report should be universally accepted.

I concur to that.

I would also add that I don't believe in sharpening a three bladed head with a flat stone or file. There is simply not enough angle on the blade to get them sharp enough. I know of a lot of guys to like that method, but it just isn't good enough for me.

Bobco,

In actuality, the angle of convergence of the blades is manufactured to be sharpened simulataneously at 90 degrees. Hence, you not only decrease sharpening time but actually decrease the amount of burring by sharpening with a file/flat stone.

I will agree, most 3 blade heads are not manufactured with this sharpening aspect ingrained, but the Snuffers actually are designed for this sharpening technique.

I had no problem getting them razor sharp with a mill file, although I did find it personally time-consuming to get them much sharper with a stone/steel/hone. And before any razzing, I worked as a chef for 7 years, so I can put an edge on anything pretty fast and efficiently. That's when I contacted Magnus directly, and was informed that they usually just file their heads, with no further honing.

c903, glad to see that you haven't changed

In all honesty, I never had a Magnus head sharp straight out of the package. So as far as their sharpening advice goes..........

I am not satified with their shaprness or designed manufactured edge angle. One of the first things do is change the angle. Only have to do it once. Doesn't take too long with a filing board. From what I hear, the their stainless heads are sharp, but I have never tried them. But like I said this is a personal preference, and I enjoy sharpening - good stress reliever I suppose.