Paper tuning please help
05-14-2004 | 06:51 PM
#1
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Ocean Springs, MS
Paper tuning please help
http://pabucks.com/paper_tuning_your_bow.html My arrows are fish-tailling left. On the chart for my Carbon Force 200 arrows they fit my 27" dl and 50lb weight. On the site it says left tail means weak spined arrow. I just bought several arrows of what my pro shop said fit me.[:@] Is this true? How do I fix it?
05-15-2004 | 06:51 AM
#5
Joined: Apr 2004
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RE: Paper tuning please help
move your rest to the right, if that makes it worse move it left. i've been told by a pro shooter that if you are right handed its good for you to be a little left and nock high from up close, he said something about the way it ends up at 20 yards and beyond. personally i like bullets, but i'll say that shooter knows more than me.
05-15-2004 | 10:07 AM
#6
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 259
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RE: Paper tuning please help
Did you powder test for contact with the prongs?
I just set up a brand new LB1 Newberry hybrid cam without shooting it through paper once and it shoots broadheads in the same groupss as field tips.
I always set everything by eye than test for contact first. Once I know that nothing is hitting where it isn't supposed to, I move on.
I take a level and tape a piece of tape perfectly level across my target butt. I shoot arrows at this line of tape from 10 to 15 yards and adjust nock point until I get the best group of arrows to the line. You shouldn't have to move the nock point more than 1/8" either way from level.
For the centershot. I sight in on a 3/4" flourescent dot at 10 yrds. Then using the same pin I shoot a group of arrows at 30 yrds (make sure your target butt is tall enough). Then using a plumb bob I make sure that the group is perfectly plumb below the 10 yard dot. If the group is to the right of plumb I move the rest left....etc.
I then shoot a broadhead group and field tip group to check how well I've done. On 50% of the bows I have done I have been totally satisfied. If not I use Easton's tuning guide adjust the broadheads to the field tips.
This whole process usually takes less than an hour. After that I shoot and don't mess with a thing. Accept the fact that a BUNCH of bad arrow flight is the shooter's fault, not the setup's.
I just set up a brand new LB1 Newberry hybrid cam without shooting it through paper once and it shoots broadheads in the same groupss as field tips.
I always set everything by eye than test for contact first. Once I know that nothing is hitting where it isn't supposed to, I move on.
I take a level and tape a piece of tape perfectly level across my target butt. I shoot arrows at this line of tape from 10 to 15 yards and adjust nock point until I get the best group of arrows to the line. You shouldn't have to move the nock point more than 1/8" either way from level.
For the centershot. I sight in on a 3/4" flourescent dot at 10 yrds. Then using the same pin I shoot a group of arrows at 30 yrds (make sure your target butt is tall enough). Then using a plumb bob I make sure that the group is perfectly plumb below the 10 yard dot. If the group is to the right of plumb I move the rest left....etc.
I then shoot a broadhead group and field tip group to check how well I've done. On 50% of the bows I have done I have been totally satisfied. If not I use Easton's tuning guide adjust the broadheads to the field tips.
This whole process usually takes less than an hour. After that I shoot and don't mess with a thing. Accept the fact that a BUNCH of bad arrow flight is the shooter's fault, not the setup's.
