Hitting a wall?
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Big Sandy TX USA
While at the proshop getting my bow tuned the guy told my I should hit a wall at full draw. With my bow I don' t really " hit a wall" . I get to a point that " solid" at my anchor point, but I can still pull back more if I try. Does the wall depend on what type of bow you shoot? I know some bows actually have a stop on them that won' t let it go any farther.
#2
you kinda answered your own question , but yes some of the newer bows have draw stops so you know when you are at full draw. if you can pull a little more , depending on how much ,the problem this can create is you can do whats called creeping i know with my old bow i did it sometimes it' s hard to prevent . as along as you draw to the same point every time you' ll be ok.
#3
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,199
Likes: 1
From: Blossvale, New York
Well, if he tells you you should hit a wall, I' m assuming your bow is built with one. If you' re not reaching it your draw length is too long and you' ll have a harder time getting consistancy. I don' t know all bows but there are folks here that do. What year, model etc bow do you have?
#4
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
When you draw your bow, the draw weight continues to increase until the let-off point is reached, then declines into the valley. Once you reach the bottom of the valley (least amount of holding weight) the weight will start to climb back up as you draw past it. Depending on your cams, this valley can be broad and mushy feeling, or very narrow with a solid " wall" at the end of it. Drawing into the wall just a tad is not a bad thing, but you don' t need or want to overdo it.
#5
I always thought the wall was where after you drew so far the resistance picked back up, another words your let off is decreasing, when I come to full draw I am right at the point of going beyond the valley of the let off. (Does that make sense?
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#6
Fork Horn
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 436
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From: Southern MD USA
It' s gonna depend on the bow, but I mean with any bow you can Pull real hard and make it draw further... But you should feels a stopping point for sure, otherwise like David said your draw length is probably a lil too long... and that can create more issues with let-off... I shoot a Mathews Legacy, and if I let that bow down even a hair it trys to rip my arm off... And I can feel the complete stop... So sounds like something isn' t right...
#7
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Big Sandy TX USA
My bow is about seven years old. It is a Browning. Not sure of the model. It doesn' t have a stop on it.
This guy was probably in junior high when I first got my bow. I just think he is more familiar with the newer bows they sell in the shop.
I have shot newer bows that have the wall like bowtech. It is not the same feeling as one of those. It is more like the way Danny45 describes. I shoot pretty well with my setup the way it is, but I want to get better.
Thanks for the response.
This guy was probably in junior high when I first got my bow. I just think he is more familiar with the newer bows they sell in the shop.
I have shot newer bows that have the wall like bowtech. It is not the same feeling as one of those. It is more like the way Danny45 describes. I shoot pretty well with my setup the way it is, but I want to get better.
Thanks for the response.
#8
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
From:
From experience, I shot an MQ-1 that had a soft wall. When I got to what was considered full draw, I could still pull back with a little creep. My LX has a hard wall, where when I get to full draw, there is no extra creep.
Yes, it would depend on the model of the bow. Seems, though that most older bows had a definite hard wall, and you should be able to tell where it is.
Just my $.02 worth.
Yes, it would depend on the model of the bow. Seems, though that most older bows had a definite hard wall, and you should be able to tell where it is.
Just my $.02 worth.




