Hey Bigcountry...
08-12-2010, 08:01 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 2,333
That's a new concern for me now, even though it's a very minor one. I was getting full pass throughs with 1 3/4" mechs and I was pulling the arrows out of the dirt That's where they always got damaged. Now I'm thinking about what all of that excess energy is going to do to these heads as it drives it WAY down into the dirt. I'm not too concerned about that though. I just want a good blood trail for once. Remember, I'm colorblind. I can follow a good blood trail, but not a bad one.
08-12-2010, 08:16 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Almost 2.5" of cutting surface, four blades, what do you think?
Honestly, I have shot deer with no name k-mart crap, to ones that were serrated like a steak knife back in the 80's to thunderheads for 15 years, to montecs, to spitfires, now slicks. If you hit any deer in the boilerroom, blood trails never been an issue with any of em.
Honestly, I have shot deer with no name k-mart crap, to ones that were serrated like a steak knife back in the 80's to thunderheads for 15 years, to montecs, to spitfires, now slicks. If you hit any deer in the boilerroom, blood trails never been an issue with any of em.
08-12-2010, 12:04 PM
#14
Typical Buck
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Belgium
Posts: 996
Just buy new blades for your tricks. I made a tester out of a square and some elastic bands. You push your broadhead through and when the rubber bands get cut off, you know they are sharp enough.
I use sanding paper, grid 1000 and then grid 2000, just strike any blade a few times both sides and they get sharp.
There's some good tutorials on sharpening blades on youtube.
But best way to sharpen is to use japanese waterstones but they are expensive, same as belgian cuticole claystone....
I use sanding paper, grid 1000 and then grid 2000, just strike any blade a few times both sides and they get sharp.
There's some good tutorials on sharpening blades on youtube.
But best way to sharpen is to use japanese waterstones but they are expensive, same as belgian cuticole claystone....
08-13-2010, 04:42 AM
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cenral Illinois
Posts: 3,180
Now that's what I needed to hear to make me feel even better!
That's a new concern for me now, even though it's a very minor one. I was getting full pass throughs with 1 3/4" mechs and I was pulling the arrows out of the dirt That's where they always got damaged. Now I'm thinking about what all of that excess energy is going to do to these heads as it drives it WAY down into the dirt. I'm not too concerned about that though. I just want a good blood trail for once. Remember, I'm colorblind. I can follow a good blood trail, but not a bad one.
That's a new concern for me now, even though it's a very minor one. I was getting full pass throughs with 1 3/4" mechs and I was pulling the arrows out of the dirt That's where they always got damaged. Now I'm thinking about what all of that excess energy is going to do to these heads as it drives it WAY down into the dirt. I'm not too concerned about that though. I just want a good blood trail for once. Remember, I'm colorblind. I can follow a good blood trail, but not a bad one.
08-13-2010, 08:45 AM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southern TN
Posts: 1,018
I didn't know if they had replacement blades...now that I know that, I will more than likely be purchasing some in the coming days. Tips on tuning with them? Any different than with other heads, or easier ways to go about it?
