This is from the original thread: "I don't go backwards though (i.e. back to paper or walk-back after BH tuning). I make sure my BH and FP's are grouping and then I check at another yardage (at least 15 yards greater) and figure I am good-to-go"

OH, don't get me wrong b/c I'm not slamming Doc, he's probably forgotten more than I'll know, but I believe people are using this method out of context. People THINK there bow is in specs then go adjusting this and that and get the POI the same and think there bow is tuned and it's not. Sure the POI is the same, but all that means is that both the broadhead tipped arrows and fieldpoints are fishtailing their way to the same spot. Of course it's a valid method, but only if it's used with other methods.

I think people put WAY too much time and energy attempting to make their broadheads hit the same spot as their fieldpoints. This seems like too much wasted effort IMO. If you are going to hunt with a bow, why in the world would you worry at all where the fieldpoints hit? Tune the bow to the broadheads and be done with it! Practice with last years heads or with practice blades. In doing this myself, I'll fling a few arrows with fieldpoints along with broadhead tipped arrows and they've never been more than a little bit off from each other.

It only matters, to me, for reference. If I know my bow's tuned for my FP's......it ought to be tuned for my BH's. Since I shoot one bow for both.....it's simply "a" point of reference that one would not have if all they shot were BH's.

Your advice is correct, though. If you truly tune your bow to (_______) head/point.....you're golden.

I can practice with fieldpoints and know that my practice will apply to my broadheads. Besides, all this worrying about how the bow and the arrow shoot together gives great insight to the dynamics of that particular bow and arrow combo and what they will do under different conditions. Some of us enjoy the archery aspect of bowhunting as much as we enjoy the hunting aspect of bowhunting .

No Sooner, he doesn't at least on the first page. While I'll agree, he may have been better off to start at a walkback and then got to BH tuning, he IS correct, if you get FP's and BH's to the same POI at various distances, your walk-back WILL be good. You're reading out of context. That is a VERY good thread, that answers nearly every question a guy could come up with, short of getting into deep detail with spine issues and tip weight variations, which it may, I've just never read the whole thing. (Actually, in an out of context way he does, but he doesn't say "you shouldn't walk-back prior to BH tuning," though he does say he DID.) And he IS correct that if you CAN BH tune a bow without ever doing a walk-back or paper-tune on it, it will in a way replace both. [Isn't the ultimate goal in most of our situations to be able to shoot FP's and BH's to a similar/same POI????] But you'd have to start out CLOSE to the target, I believe he says 15yds at one point when answering a question for another member.

Well I originallygot mine hitting the same and it wasn't even close to centershot. It's like papertuning, you can get the desired result (i.e., a perfect paper tear) if you manipulate centershot and nock height but that doesn't mean your arrows are flying straight.

I believe if you have to adjust much then you need to quit the BH tuning for the time being b/c it's an indication something is wrong that bh tuning won't cure by itself.A properly tuned bow should shoot bh and fp very close to the same.

How can you have both BH and FP's hitting at same POI, and not be at centershot??? Maybe you need a 3rd axis adjustment on you bow??? I suppose you coud have same POI and your centershot be off but I'm not seeing it with anything I've set up. BH's usually exaggerate tuning issues, which is why I'll recommend BH tuning even for a guy who doesn't shoot Fixed BH's, because it will get a bow "better tuned," from my experience.

Just because I'm wondering what you mean, do you have a level on your sight??? And how far is the center of the arrow from your riser??? I suppose spine may potentially be an issue as well, but generally I wouldn't expect great groups, and I'd expect difficulty getting the BH's and FP's to grouptogether.

Just some random thoughts, and I'm shooting a .340 spine arrow out of a 62# bow and a 70 and 72# bow, with decent groups and making my POI very similar with BH's and FP's using that exact same method, except I DO walkback tune first.

Not sure what you're really asking here, but I shoot both BH's and FP's pretty regularly, but I shoot a LOT, and I don't like DESTROYING targets by shooting BH's ALL the time, therefore, I shoot my FP's much more often. I've never tried to tune a bow JUST shooting BH's, the variance between FP and BH flight helps me differentiate the fine tune of the bow personally.

To answer your questions, I have SH Hunter Hogg-It so yes I have (and utilize) a level and yes I have set the 3rd axis. My centershot is 11/16 or 13/16, can't remember off the top of my head.

Perhaps I'm misreading your post, but obviously POI between fp's and bh's doesn't ALWAYS mean centershot (especially from a out of tuned bow) or else all you'd have to do is walk back and you'd have the same left to right impact from fp's and bh's right off the bat. I believe Doc aknowledges that your rest may have to be moved from centershot. Read closely: All I'm saying is that if you have to make BIG adjustments to achieve the same POI, then something else isn't right.

With EVERY bow I've shot, I've found that if you had a minor variance with your FP's, you had a MAJOR variance with BH's. If you're shooting a HOYT, your centerrest should start at 13/16, then you should TWEAK from there to get what you need. I don't have 3rd axis on any of my sights, and I get right what I need out of each, one not even having a level!!!!

So are you saying you did a walk-back tune and you were OFF with both the same increment??? If so, I'm thinking your 3rd axis is set wrong. Not trying to tick you off, but I think most guys will tell you that if your centershot is off, you aren't going to be able to put BH's with FP's at any distance per se. I know with my limited experience, I've set up 10 or so bows, I've always found that to be true, but there may be some variances out there I'm not familiar with. Which direction are you pulling to???? I know I have seen some guys, myself at one point when trying to shoot 30" that consistently pulled the string out of alignment, and created issues. For me,it caused me ot shoot LEFT, but I shoot right-handed. Is there any chance you are overdrawn??