ORIGINAL: OHbowhntr
ORIGINAL: Doc on AT
You can walk-back tune prior to BH tuning, but if you are truly BH tuned (done at various distances) then there is no reason to walk-back tune.
If you were to paper tune and then walk-back tune, your BH tuning should only require minimal adjustments. BH's show tuning flaws more so than FP's.
No Sooner, he doesn't at least on the first page. While I'll agree, he may have been better off to start at a walkback and then got to BH tuning, he IS correct, if you get FP's and BH's to the same POI at various distances, your walk-back WILL be good. You're reading out of context. That is a VERY good thread, that answers nearly every question a guy could come up with, short of getting into deep detail with spine issues and tip weight variations, which it may, I've just never read the whole thing. (Actually, in an out of context way he does, but he doesn't say "you shouldn't walk-back prior to BH tuning," though he does say he DID.) And he IS correct that if you CAN BH tune a bow without ever doing a walk-back or paper-tune on it, it will in a way replace both.
[Isn't the ultimate goal in most of our situations to be able to shoot FP's and BH's to a similar/same POI????] But you'd have to start out CLOSE to the target, I believe he says 15yds at one point when answering a question for another member.
Well I originallygot mine hitting the same and it wasn't even close to centershot. It's like papertuning, you can get the desired result (i.e., a perfect paper tear) if you manipulate centershot and nock height but that doesn't mean your arrows are flying straight.
I believe if you have to adjust much then you need to quit the BH tuning for the time being b/c it's an indication something is wrong that bh tuning won't cure by itself.A properly tuned bow should shoot bh and fp very close to the same.