You'll probably gaina 1/4" of clearance with a new slide. Lancaster should have a couple different teflon slides available that will do the trick. You may need a press to put it on though.

Jeff, by switching cable guards, and thus gaining a bit more clearance, you won't put your arrow out of "level" but you will increase torque by a little bit. You may find you'll need to move your pin right/left a little bit. Man, if you could get a different slide and simply adjust your pins a little.....that sure would be a lot easier and you would essentially be able to keep your bow tuned the way you've got it. And then again, you may not need to move your pin at all.

I had the same issue with a Trophy taker on my 06 Allegiance. I put a Simms teflon slide on and corrected the problem. The BT slides are pretty high profile. It didn't affect my tune. I resighted the bow and then walk back and broadhead tuned.

Some drop a way rests will require you to set your nocking point so the arrow is above the berger hole rather than in the center of it in order to get clearance. Especially some of the ones that sit over the shelf instead of behind it. To do this you will have to change your nocking point and peep position, both will need to go up. You will most likely have to resight in as well.

Paul

Funny you posted this when you did because I worked on my bow with the same problem today. I am shooting a limb driver on an 82nd and was getting fletching contact with the 2" blazers. I raised the arrow up so the bottom of the arrow is even with the center of the holes in the riser and reset the nock. Believe it or not I did not have to reset the pins on my sight. I started close and worked my way back to 40 yards with no adjustment needed.

All good advice, and one of the main reasons you'll remember I fell in love with the Muzzy Zero Effect years ago; it allows for the arm to drop down behind the shelf instead of slapping onto it.

Kanga gave you good advice (as most everyone did); and yes, LAS sells the Hicks slides. Several of the Pro Staffers swear by them, and it's one of the first things I replace on a standard cable-guard bow.

I already ordered the Hicks. We'll go from there.

Thanks, guys!

Jeff.

Sorry for not getting back sooner I was in the shop laminating some limbs for my take down.

But it looks like you have it under control now.

Not familiar with the bow or rest but what I'd try first is fooling with the limb bolts.It may be nock travel. The nockcould be being driven down at the end of the cycle. Try and take some out of the bottom limb bolt or adding some to the top. 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. If you get to 1 full turn and things haven't improved, forget it.

Does that bow really start off in the center? I mean is the nock really in the center between the2 axel bolts on the string. Mine isn't even close so anyone can see that there's plenty of room to play with either way. Mine also doesn't split the bow top to bottom evenly, it's a compoundangle.

Are those limbs (top and bottom) interchangeable? If not there's more proof that there's room for adjustment. If one limb is stronger than the other, it will pull the nock up or down unless it's equaled out. I know they work hard to take the figuring out of it, but... unlees you can film it, ya got a experiment.

Other things could also be effecting the travel like cam rotation. Thing is a bow that shoots well adds up and it takes a series of things to add it up. For the sake of example lets say the number it needs to add up to is 10. As long as it does it will shoot well, could be 2,2,3,2,1. The thing you want to get though is 2,2,2,2,2. In other words you don't want to have to have a 3 to make up for a 1. A new slide might just be a 3 because your timing is a 1. It's why most everybody has a fix that worked for them and "if you do what they did you'll be fine". You do and your not. For them it added up, for you it didn't.

I can't nor can anyone else without knowing all the factors what the fix is but I can say this, you'll know when they're all 2's.

Remember,the further above the hole you go,the further you get from center(no,the hole is not always vertical center,sometimes it is the shelf and sometimes it is the grip)The more foregiveness is affected.I am not saying it will be a huge issue,I have shot bows this way for hunting,but I did notice a loss of forgiveness.The closer to the shelf you can get,the better,atleast in theory.All my targetsetups are set as close to the shelf as I can get them.


The vertical problem might be the angle of the rest,just trouble shooting here.Does the rest sit flat on the shelf when down?(obviously it doesn't,just reread the original post)Is it possible to get it to sit flat by changing the angle of the prongs?(maybe scoot it back,up and adjust angle)Again,just trouble shooting.


Watch this short video,I have no idea if it has anything to do with your problem,just something else to look at.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZK7O_s1Rq8