BGfisher

I'd post more if I had something intelligent to say. Or put another way, if I knew how to be more articulate with my words. Many times I know what I'm talking about. I just don't say it well and come across as a Know-it-all or I don't go into enough detail. It takes a lot of typing to be detail oriented and I try to make suggestions in a general manner.

You're been shooting long enough to know that there is more to shooting well than just drawing and shooting. Learning good form starts at the feet, looking at the target, drawing aiming, not thinking about the release, but just letting it happen. All the little details like getting a bow's drawlength down to the last 1/8", good tuning skills, etc, etc, etc. Details, details, details. And one thing at a time. Shot sequence and timing. You know what I mean.

My hay-days were back in the late 70's in field and target archery. As I get older I don't have the physical skills, but I remember a lot of those details. So although I can't shoot as well I can try to pass on some of what I've learned. I know the equipment is different today, but those basics don't change.

As an example, today's bows have a ton of letoff and that can lead to aiming problems. There just isn't enough holding weighton thebow at full draw. Shooter has to use arm and shoulder muscles to hold the bow up instead of being able to use the back muscles to aim and pull through the shoot. Gee, maybe that's why so many people want a bow with a draw stop or a solid back wall. Ya think? DUH. You know, draw 60# with 80% letoff and then pull into the wall to develop 20# of holding weight. You know what I'm saying.

Buckmaster, sorry for the short hijack, but this is why drawlength is so important. It's not the only thing in the equation though. Good shooting begins with the feet and comes right up through the body. Doing the same thing every time builds consistency. Once you develop some consistency in form it often comes down to "AIM THE BOW". Assuming you make good shots the arrows will impact where the sight pin is at the shot. The only thing you should be doing at that moment is aiming. In many cases if you see your arrow go then you are screwing up, looking for the arrow instead of where it's supposed to hit. It's very possible that once you get more experience those ping-pong paddle groups will shrink to ping-pong ball groups, but it isn't going to happen over night.

Buckmaster519

thanks man i appreciate the advice, i will put it to good use and thank you all for your help.

Thanks
Colten

TFOX

Full length picture at full draw.


BG, I know exactly what you are talking about.I have a bow that I ordered with 65% letoff because I know about proper shoulder load and drawlength and how that effects hold.That bow apparently was designed to be shot at 75% letoff because I never could get it to hold or shoot the way I wanted,so I changed it to 75% letoff and it is a different bow immediately.Eventually I did shorten it a 1/2" (and longer loop)and pull hard into the wall.Now it shoots great and even tunes perfect on a shooting machine.Hence,yes equipment has changed.

davidmil

Well that's a big part of your problem. You're concentrating on the pins. I know this may sound stupid at this point, but really... forget the pin. Oh sure you should look and make sure you're using the correct pin, and be aware of it, but you really shouldn't try to concentrate on the pin staying still. Draw lenght as someone mentioned is critical for consistancy and good form. BUT, you should be looking at the spot you want to hit, whether it's a bullseye or a hair or crease behind a bucks shoulder. If the pin is floating, well it won't float far off course. If you have the correct draw length and you're not punching the trigger, the arrow will hit the spot. Just let the pin wobble over the target and squeeze off the shot.... all the time focusing on the spot. The pin is NOT your focus. Draw and get the pin on target as fast as you can, then just concentrate on the spot... squeeze ....squeeze .... squeeze.... whether it's your back muscles or touching that spot behind your elbow..... SQUEEZE.

TFOX

Good call david,no great call.

Buckmaster519

i think i have found my niche i was trying that advice today and i got home and you had put it up haha lol like i mean i was trying that myself and you posted it and i was like huh lol. It really works for me i get the pin where i want it and i concentrate on the spot i want the arrow to hit.


Thanks
Colten

Pro-Line

David hit the nail on the head...The pins should be secondary to the target.

Another thing that helps me is to count to5 on EVERY shot. One is the draw. Two is the anchor. Three is the grip. Four is the focus on the target/pin. Five is the release. (It seems a smoother process when I to it than when I type it)

I've been doing this for over 25 years...many of them with a recurve. With a recurve it was a 3 count.One was the anchor. Two was focusing on the target. Three was the release. This process calms me down and puts me on the same rhythm that I'm on at the range.

Another problem...at least for me...was the draw length necessary for the newer, higher let-off bows. As someone said...there is just no pressure there to hold the bow steady. If you shoot a 60 pound bow with 75% let-off...that means that you are holding a mere 15 pounds at full draw. That's a far cry from heavy weight, and it's much easier to "flinch" when you don't have to use as much of your muscle. At least it is for me.

These new bows have been a complete learning experience to me...but my results have been astounding since I changed my way of thinking.

MichaelT.

One other question I would have for you is, What distance are you shooting when the arrow impacts begin to open up? If they are opening up at 10 - 20 yards, then there is a form problem or you are jerking the release.... If the are opening up at 40 - 50 yards, then it is a stability ( strength )and focusing problem. It is a lot easier to " miss " from 40 or 50 uards than it is from 10 yards. At 10 yards you should just about be able to group in a pie plate even without sights.... that is not meant literally, but rather in a figureative sense..... and how long have you been shooting and how much do you practice?

MET

thehairlessone!

Good advice!

rick

Madjac20

Dead-on. I was was having the same problem till I remembered that I wanted to hit the target, not the pins.
Something else that I've found that works is to breathe. Prior to a shot I take a 4 second breath, inhale slowly for 4 seconds, hold for 4 seconds, exhale slowlyfor 4 seconds, shoot, never holding my breath and staying relaxed. Works for me.