Most likely yes........
3 under applies a much different pressure on the string and arrow. If the bow isn't tillered for 3 under (even tiller) then generally speaking you should expect to have to nock the arrow a little higher than you would with a split grip.

Also don't jam your finger up against the arrow when you draw.....it's hard to duplicate hard pressure and the arrow can come off differently shot to shot.
I like to set my fingers just brushing the bottom of the nock as I draw.

Then the only "kick" one might expect (if the bow was set up for a different type shooter) would be a kick up or down?

I would assume side to side would indicate spine issues, correct???

Short drawing also does this.

Yep.

Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.

I use seal, also....but I learn something every day.

Will be cutting a "trough", tonight.

Thanks, Matt.

When you say kick, I assume you mean fishtailing. I'd also agree that you are probably over-spined. Try using this chart click_here to get you close. I'd also suggest trying to bare shaft test once you can group out to twenty or so yards. I wouldn't suggest using the easton chart for traditional equipment.

Good luck, but lose the blue slippers..

that's neat. I always thought it would be fun to try one

rick

Gotta love the trad! When I switched from split to 3-under i raised the nocking point up one brass nock width, and that did me.You would be suprised what little a change can do to a bow's performance!

Don't forget to keep checking brace height. It's easy to get caught up shooting & shooting and your string stretches a little and can slightly throw things off. Check it at least once a week, maybe every few days if you are shooting a lot.