Look maw, no wheels (pics)
08-11-2008, 04:13 PM
#32
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin/Michigan
Posts: 9,679
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
Looks good! I'm by far from a person who should be giving any sort of advice but a couple things that I found with me is, like schulty said, short drawing! I run into problems when I do this! I practiced and practiced so I DO NOT do this anymore! Also check your nocks, are they tight on the arrow, like in to tight. If they are to tight this could cause a fishtail and your bow will be louder as well! Another thing could be your torquing your string to much, try and get your hand inline as much as possible!
As for your anchor point, I do the same, I use my index finger and have no problem with accuracy! Each person shoots different, try different things out and find what works best for you! What works for some doesn't work for others!
Also I noticed you shoot with a quiver on, if your tuning your bow with this on, always hunt/practice with it on and the correct amount of arrows in it!
I got a feeling your going to love the flight you get from the Snuffers! I draw 49# and went with 125gr and a 50gr insert so I have a thinner cutting diameter because I'm not superman like Schulty and pulling 73#'s!!!!!!!!!!
It sure is fun.....
As for your anchor point, I do the same, I use my index finger and have no problem with accuracy! Each person shoots different, try different things out and find what works best for you! What works for some doesn't work for others!
Also I noticed you shoot with a quiver on, if your tuning your bow with this on, always hunt/practice with it on and the correct amount of arrows in it!
I got a feeling your going to love the flight you get from the Snuffers! I draw 49# and went with 125gr and a 50gr insert so I have a thinner cutting diameter because I'm not superman like Schulty and pulling 73#'s!!!!!!!!!!
It sure is fun.....
08-11-2008, 05:07 PM
#34
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 9,445
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
As for your anchor point, I do the same, I use my index finger and have no problem with accuracy! Each person shoots different, try different things out and find what works best for you! What works for some doesn't work for others!
Also I noticed you shoot with a quiver on, if your tuning your bow with this on, always hunt/practice with it on and the correct amount of arrows in it!
Also I noticed you shoot with a quiver on, if your tuning your bow with this on, always hunt/practice with it on and the correct amount of arrows in it!
Like Joe said Dan, everyone is different with there anchor point and if it works for ya thats what matters. I've seen some ugly looking anchor points on some traditional shooters that I know and there dead on with there shooting. The main thing is be consistent with your anchor point, thats what matters more then anything when talking anchor points.
Good luck bud!!
08-11-2008, 05:22 PM
#35
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 2,333
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
Yep.
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
ORIGINAL: GMMAT
Then the only "kick" one might expect (if the bow was set up for a different type shooter) would be a kick up or down?
I would assume side to side would indicate spine issues, correct???
Then the only "kick" one might expect (if the bow was set up for a different type shooter) would be a kick up or down?
I would assume side to side would indicate spine issues, correct???
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
08-11-2008, 05:34 PM
#36
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 9,445
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
08-11-2008, 07:13 PM
#37
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin/Michigan
Posts: 9,679
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
ORIGINAL: Schultzy
Whats this trough your talking about? Got a picture or something?
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
08-11-2008, 08:14 PM
#38
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 9,445
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
ORIGINAL: BowHuntingFool
Steve, he is just talking about not putting your shelf rest all the way up tight to your strike plate, leaving a little gap for your feather! Some guys do this some guys don't, I don't!
ORIGINAL: Schultzy
Whats this trough your talking about? Got a picture or something?
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
08-11-2008, 10:00 PM
#39
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dover, PA USA
Posts: 5,497
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
ORIGINAL: LittleChief
Hey, Matt...... is that something you learned after you sold me the Montana?? There's no "trough".... it's all one piece. Also, I'm shooting split fingers and you had it tillered for three under. Should I have changed something? I don't know, but I'm hitting well with it now. I'm afraid to change anything. Still.... let me know.
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
Yep.
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
ORIGINAL: GMMAT
Then the only "kick" one might expect (if the bow was set up for a different type shooter) would be a kick up or down?
I would assume side to side would indicate spine issues, correct???
Then the only "kick" one might expect (if the bow was set up for a different type shooter) would be a kick up or down?
I would assume side to side would indicate spine issues, correct???
Also when you set your shelf material make sure you leave a gap or "trough" between the shelf pad and the strike plate or material you use (I use seal for both)
Then index your nocks so the shelf feather tip slides into and through this trough.
Its easier on the contact feather and seems to provide cleaner arrow flight.
Yeah that's something I started doing a little bit after that.......some bows I've tried definitely shot cleaner after I split the pad and strike plate, and it IS easier on the shelf side feather.
That Montana honestly was a freak of a thing. It shot straight no matter what I did to it. I also messed around split finger and 3 under and it was still the easiest tuning traditional bow I've had and very tolerant to varying arrow spines/tip weights.
My $1000+ dollar Morrison didn't tune as easily as that Montana![:-]
As long as it is shooting straight don't change a thing on that bow! LOL
Seriously it's just one of those bows that doesn't care too much what you do to it.
You're fine.
08-11-2008, 10:08 PM
#40
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
RE: Look maw, no wheels (pics)
So Dan,how is that no letoff on the shoulder?
I might pull out the old Kodiak with wood this year if my shoulder is up for it.
Right now it feels great with almost no pain when shooting but it is weaker and some soreness afterwards but that is a boatload better than before.
I might pull out the old Kodiak with wood this year if my shoulder is up for it.
Right now it feels great with almost no pain when shooting but it is weaker and some soreness afterwards but that is a boatload better than before.