RE: Tuning with just one method
 

True, Bruce....and I though of that. And I guess the question could be asked.....tuned for what? What you speak of is why some people shoudn't be shooting mechanicals.;)

I guess I've been shooting a lot of targets of late....and my answer was geared more towards that.

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

I agree, also I have seen many guys who were shooting good groups with an out of tune bow. If you were to inspect the arrows closely before pulling themoutof the target. You would find theycould beall pointing a slightly different direction, but yet the point of inpact will betogether. Also a untune bow will never shootas fast, asif it was in tune.

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

Well, if I am just shooting field points then I stop tuning when the bow and arrow are shooting they way I think they should. If I am going to be shooting broadheads then I will put broadheads on the shafts and tune those too. I have found, even with my Muzzy Phantoms, that, if I even have to make any adjustments, they are very, very small.

I try and keep my shaft as close to centershot as possible. That means I adjust my DW to compensate for the spine before I ever adjust my rest. That way I only have to move my rest a small amount.

I am not sure what you meant by "tuned for what" so I gave a couple of answers.

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

To add to this: You can also be shooting a good group at 15 yds but when you go back to 40 it is not so good anymore.

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

i too would take a broadhead tune. if i can get a full sized 3 fixed blade head to fly with my field points at all my distances, i found that my other tunes are right on. ive checked group tune and walk back tune and both were great after broadhead tuning. i find broadhead tuning to just be easier for me. and after the broadhead tune i HAVE watched long ranger groups shrink and shooting become more consistant.

paper tuning is just getting things close to being in tune. if you only shot 20yds all day every day, you might never notice if your bow isnt in perfect tune...but shoot at 30, 40, 50, 60+yds and you can and will see groups open up and/or arrows angled oddly or groups impacting left and right of where your vertical zero is...(ie you shot dead center at 20yds but at 30 you hit a little right and 40 you hit a little left...)

if i cant have my broadhead tune id go with a walk back or group tune...

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

Actually none of the above, if it were one and one only, it'd be laser and levels!

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

I use those too but, maybe just to me, that is more "setup" than tuning. laser and levels don't help with adjusting for spine. I wouldn't think of going hunting after just using laser and levels but I would after tuning with one of the above methods.

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

Not true. You broadhead tune with whatever broadhead you're going to hunt with, doesn't matter what design it is as long as it's the same as you're going to use. I'd expect that if it was a high profile multi-blade and you get it tuned properly, it's going to shoot an expandable or low profile head equally well, just like it's going to shoot field points as good or better than it did before it was "fine tuned".

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

If I could only use one method it would be group tune.

RE: Tuning with just one method
 

Yes, you are correct. I am not sure what I was thinking but I did leave broadhead tuning out on purpose. I guess I was just thinking of field points as lately that is all I am shooting.