Arthur P, Youre right I have worked myself into a real bad habit I have been doing it for about 8 years now and it keeps geting worse. I can usually recover and make a good shot but sometimes I will flinch about 3 or 4 times before releasing. Everyone has gave me some very good info I am going to try and change the way I anchor and use the back tension method it sounds like it will take alot of practice. And if all else fails I will start shooting fingers again.

I use a True Fire X-Caliper release and it has two ways to release the shot. The standare . . . pull the trigger to release and a relax to fire . . . you lock the jaws on, draw your bow, and just relax your hand to fire. I have my trigger set very light and I don't dare think about releasing until I am ready.

This is True Fire's answer to back tension and it works great for me. [I'm on my third dozen nocks . . . but I love the groups in the bull.]

Bowhunter

Flenching? Sounds like target panic to me. This is a psychological problem more than instructional. More practice and disipline, its easier to correct if you shoot a release as opposed to fingers. Remember, you are a machine holding a divise, you in being that machine, MUST follow through consistantly the same way each tyme and be patient or as you well know, there will be different results. Good luck<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

hunt4hobbie you have gotten a lot of good advice, hope some of it helps, I will ask another question, where is your anchor point and do you use a kisser?

The Tazman aka Martin Price
Proud father of a Devil Dog

I use a kisser in the corner of my mouth, my anchor point is to put the second knuckle of my thumb under my jaw bone about three quarters of the way back of my jaw bone.

I agree that the flinch is associated with your anticipation of the shot. Try to use less focus on the shot and more focus on the release. Aim the bow, then concentrate on releasing. You should be surpised by the release. When you are releasing correctly, you hand should jump back after the shot, not go forward, or stand still. When this happens, everything is natural. You won't have to worry about flinching because the shot will already be over. Phil hit the nail on the head.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Try to use less focus on the shot and more focus on the release. Aim the bow, then concentrate on releasing. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>

Don't do that! If you concentrate on the release you're sure to anticipate the shot and your flinching will only get worse. A wise man once told me back tension is the key <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>. A number of people, including myself, have suggested you try shortening your draw length. Start there<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>.

nodose, gee, I don't know about that. Yes back tension is extremely important, can't argue that. Back tension is what will make your release hand spring backward after the shot when done properly. When I concentrate on the release, it is always a surprise when it goes off. I know every pit and bump in my release by concentrating on it, and pulling it slowly. By putting that much concentration on the release, I have no idea when it will go off.

Hunt4hobbie, you may want to check out Kirk Ethridges book &quot;Professional Archery Technique&quot; for ideas.

Edited by - BobCo19-65 on 02/11/2003 14:42:04

Edited by - BobCo19-65 on 02/11/2003 15:08:25

If you use proper &quot;back tension&quot;, and concentrate on what you're shooting at your release will suprise you when it goes off as well. Believe it from someone that had the worse case of target panic in the history of the sport. I had a pro shooting buddy of mine cure me of the problem. His first words to me, that stick into my head till this day is &quot;stop friggin thinking about your release!&quot; After he got my shooting form straightened out I honestly can't tell you how my release goes off....thats how suprised I am when it does. I have no idea how my release goes off because I don't think about my release at all.

Edited by - nodose on 02/11/2003 14:47:03

I developed a severe case of target panic/flinching or whatever you want to call it a couple years ago. THERE IS NO QUICK FIX.... PERIOD. It' s a long drawn out process but it can make you a better shooter than before. First and foremost you must have the correct draw length. If it' s to long your dead before you start. This allows you to use your back muscles to trigger the shot. If you shoot a release you don' t want it hair trigger... nor would you want it too hard. If you shoot a release you MUST get the tip of your finger off that trigger. Your trigger finger should curl over the trigger at about the first knuckle.

After everything is set you just stand 8 or 10 feet from a big bale(NO TARGET FACE to aim at. You draw, get on target in the center of the bale, draw and anchor, take up the slack on the trigger, CLOSE YOUR EYES, and pull through the shot with your back muscles. It should be a surprise when the shot goes off. You should not be pulling with your finger. Once the finger is hooked and the slack taken up you just shoot with back tension. TO me it was easier to invision a spot 4 or 5 inches behind my elbow and to try and pull my elbow backward with my back muscles. IF THE SHOT DOESN' T HAPPEN IN 8 SECONDS....... LET DOWN AND START OVER.

In the beginning you' ll let down a lot. DO NOT take a bad shot to get rid of the arrow......let down. YOU are not allowed to shoot at spots or target faces for at least 2 or 3 weeks, maybe more. I shot blind bales for 2 months in the garage. I' d walk out, shoot 3 to 10 arrows and go back inside. 30 minutes later I might be back for more. I shot sometimes like that off and on most of the day and nights when commericials came on the tube.

When you fell you have it, go outside and start at about 10 yards. It' s a good idea before each session to shoot 8 or 10 blind bale shots to make sure you' re not punching or jerking and that you are infact using back tension to trigger the shot.
Start outside with a blind bale at 10 yards. If it goes alright you can add a large target.... like a paper plate. Don' t be tempted into shooting spots or small targets. Aim for the center of the plate and go through the routine, point, draw, take up the slack, SEE THE SPOT, pull through the shot. IF it doesn' t happen in 8 seconds, let down and start over. If you punch, jerk, panic..... immediately stop and go back to the blind bales. Shoot outside close for a day... always being mindful of the surprised shot. AS you feel comfortable and feel the REALLY good shot coming easier... you can move back but stay with a big target. When you don' t have to let down, or keep going to the blind bale you can start decreasing the size of your target.

ALWAYS, a good idea to start and end every practice session with a few blind bale shots. RECAP.... Correct draw length, no hair trigger, tip of the finger off the trigger, draw, take up slack, back tension..... LET DOWN IF YOU MUST. A no shot is far better than making the shot go off with poor form. Good luck.