Easton HIT
#2
If the inserts are already glued in, can't do it. They are glued in w/ epoxy, and when it sets........It's done.
If you start from scratch, screw your broadheads onto your inserts, mix up the epoxy, then install the inserts, you can spin them to align the blades w/ the fletching. Lay them flat for 24 hours to let the glue set, and you're done.
Is that the info you needed?
If you start from scratch, screw your broadheads onto your inserts, mix up the epoxy, then install the inserts, you can spin them to align the blades w/ the fletching. Lay them flat for 24 hours to let the glue set, and you're done.
Is that the info you needed?
#4
Not once the inserts are glued in, no. They use a super glue type glue...
Oh, and I was slightly wrong on the above......Install the insert w/ the tool provided, THEN screw the broadhead in. W/ epoxy, you have some time before it sets, so spin them where you want them.....
Oh, and I was slightly wrong on the above......Install the insert w/ the tool provided, THEN screw the broadhead in. W/ epoxy, you have some time before it sets, so spin them where you want them.....
#5
Fork Horn
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Install the insert w/ the tool provided, THEN screw the broadhead in. W/ epoxy, you have some time before it sets, so spin them where you want them.....
......My Axis arrows came with a round chafing stone that puts a taper on the arrow shaft. Next batch I get I'm going to taper first, then do as quoted above with apoxy and also set it about 1/16" deeper than the standard tool. The first time should aline perfectly with the fletchings because the taper is there and you lined up the BH to the fletchings before apoxy dried.
The next time I need to fletch that arrow I line up my fletching to the broad head. To fine tune, I can grind a little more off with the taper stone if needed. The extra 1/16th inch depth gives me that many more times I can refletch and fine tune with the stone before the broad heads start bottoming out. One you can't tightened the bh to the shaft, the arrow is toast. I've got 2 shafts that the bh wont seat, bottoms out first. They were abused and actually slightly mushroomed the shaft so I had the bow shop try to square them up. They're square again but the inserts aren't deep enough now. Some day I'm going to try to heat them up and see if I can either move the insert deeper or remove it.
......My Axis arrows came with a round chafing stone that puts a taper on the arrow shaft. Next batch I get I'm going to taper first, then do as quoted above with apoxy and also set it about 1/16" deeper than the standard tool. The first time should aline perfectly with the fletchings because the taper is there and you lined up the BH to the fletchings before apoxy dried.
The next time I need to fletch that arrow I line up my fletching to the broad head. To fine tune, I can grind a little more off with the taper stone if needed. The extra 1/16th inch depth gives me that many more times I can refletch and fine tune with the stone before the broad heads start bottoming out. One you can't tightened the bh to the shaft, the arrow is toast. I've got 2 shafts that the bh wont seat, bottoms out first. They were abused and actually slightly mushroomed the shaft so I had the bow shop try to square them up. They're square again but the inserts aren't deep enough now. Some day I'm going to try to heat them up and see if I can either move the insert deeper or remove it.
#6
I am looking for a Carbon arrow that I can align the broadhead to the fletchings without changeing inserts.
There are no other benifits of having the blades match the fletching.
#8
I dont know how much of a difference it makes but if you're gonna do it dont use epoxy or glue. I(and the shop I go to) use the glue stick, by bohning I think, that you heat and drip onto the insert and then put into the shaft. If you need to adjust the head, just heat the shaft and then move to where you want it. Once cooled its solid.
#10
You would only have to heat the shaft if you were worried about alignment, and it doesn't have to be red hot. That being said, I personally dont do it any more. Did it for a couple of years and only a couple of times on heads that were way off and never had a problem, but then again I'm shooting ACCs. Maybe the aluminum helped out a little.




