pictures are uploaded
#22
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 0
From: Blissfield MI USA
From what I can tell in those pics this is what I see. Your draw seems a bit long. Your peep might be out of location because it looks like you are tipping your head into it a bit. Not too bad though. Your grip is set too far into your hand and may be too tight ( can never tell that from a picture). You also seem to be pushing the bow with the top of your hand, rather than heeling it, which would be better. You don't want the pressure in the web of your hand, but rather the pad of your thumb where the bone is.
Your release is also too loose and sliding down your hand. It should be tight enough to stay on your wrist, you shouldn't have to hold onto it like that or have it slide into your hand like it looks like it is doing. Everything should be relaxed when you are at full draw. The only effort you should exert is keeping the bow drawn and holding it up. Your draw hand should be relaxed as well as your bow fingers.
Don't shoot with an open grip, this makes you force your fingers open which uses more muscles than you need and is harder to do consistently. Set your grip, come to full draw and let your fingers fall where they are and keep them relaxed.
The picture shown is a good way to set your grip, but don't keep your fingers balled up like that while shooting or aiming. Unless you can do it without forcing them to stay way.
You might have better luck touching the string to your nose instead of pulling it to the side as well. It will give you a more consistent anchor in most cases. The way you shoot works well for people that shoot with glasses though.
I'm not a big of fan of shooting with a quiver on the bow either.
You might also consider a string loop, especially with a shoot through type rest. I think it might work out better for you.
That being said, I shot almost exactly like you do right now for about a year. I shot pretty well and didn't have a lot of trouble getting my bow tuned.
I can tell nothing from the pictures of the arrows in the target. I would have to actually watch you shoot them to tell anything. It is hard to go by what the arrows look like AFTER they hit the target. It is not uncommon for arrows to shift as they enter the target or while coming to a stop. Depends on the medium sometimes. If your arrows are that far off at that distance something is SERIOUSLY wrong. Even if your tune was off they should be stabilized by they time they get to the target.
Try shooting through paper at different distances, this will tell you exactly what your arrows are doing at what distances. I bet if you put up some paper a few feet in front of your target you would get pretty good tears. If not something is pretty messed up.
My opinions and nothing more. And a few pics really isn't much to go on
.
Paul
Your release is also too loose and sliding down your hand. It should be tight enough to stay on your wrist, you shouldn't have to hold onto it like that or have it slide into your hand like it looks like it is doing. Everything should be relaxed when you are at full draw. The only effort you should exert is keeping the bow drawn and holding it up. Your draw hand should be relaxed as well as your bow fingers.
Don't shoot with an open grip, this makes you force your fingers open which uses more muscles than you need and is harder to do consistently. Set your grip, come to full draw and let your fingers fall where they are and keep them relaxed.
The picture shown is a good way to set your grip, but don't keep your fingers balled up like that while shooting or aiming. Unless you can do it without forcing them to stay way.
You might have better luck touching the string to your nose instead of pulling it to the side as well. It will give you a more consistent anchor in most cases. The way you shoot works well for people that shoot with glasses though.
I'm not a big of fan of shooting with a quiver on the bow either.
You might also consider a string loop, especially with a shoot through type rest. I think it might work out better for you.
That being said, I shot almost exactly like you do right now for about a year. I shot pretty well and didn't have a lot of trouble getting my bow tuned.
I can tell nothing from the pictures of the arrows in the target. I would have to actually watch you shoot them to tell anything. It is hard to go by what the arrows look like AFTER they hit the target. It is not uncommon for arrows to shift as they enter the target or while coming to a stop. Depends on the medium sometimes. If your arrows are that far off at that distance something is SERIOUSLY wrong. Even if your tune was off they should be stabilized by they time they get to the target.
Try shooting through paper at different distances, this will tell you exactly what your arrows are doing at what distances. I bet if you put up some paper a few feet in front of your target you would get pretty good tears. If not something is pretty messed up.
My opinions and nothing more. And a few pics really isn't much to go on
.Paul
#23
Thread Starter
Typical Buck
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
From: Belgium
Psmurf, I was thinking along the same way. My peep should be higher up so I avoid torque by putting the string or the arrow and it's vanes to my face. and my grip isn't that bad, I have two fingers tucked behind the riser to keep it more level.
My aiming isn't that bad either, in the pics I was looking at my arrows in flight insted of aiming, I just didn't want them to hit too close too eachother and accindently messing them up....
But I'd like to have arows that fly straight to the target.
thx anyway.
Frank
My aiming isn't that bad either, in the pics I was looking at my arrows in flight insted of aiming, I just didn't want them to hit too close too eachother and accindently messing them up....
But I'd like to have arows that fly straight to the target.
thx anyway.
Frank
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