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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
You got some tuning issues going on, to be sure. Check that out first. Muzzy has been around WAY too long and ENTIRELY too many people use them w/ great success for them to suck.
Personally, I'm going to tell you NOT to switch to mechanicals. If you want to try a different head, fine, but there are way too many really, really good fixed heads. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
The only thing I could suggest is what is called a "walk back tuning" method. Take 3 broadhead tipped arrows, and shoot one at 10 yards with your 20 yard pin. Then back up to 20 yards and shoot the 2nd broadhead with your 20 yard pin. Lastly, back up to 30 yards and shoot the last broadhead at 30 yards with your 20 yard pin. You should see a grouping like this.
............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... If the arrow group starts looking like it's going diagonal, then you definitely have tuning issues. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I have been shooting the spitfires for several years and I am a big fan. However like the others
said a tuned bow will shoot fixed blades great too. There are a lot of muzzy moments to ignore.:D:D |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I too am going to have to question the tuning of your bow. I would suggest bare shaft tuning to make sure it is correct. I don't hunt with Muzzys, but I have shot them and there is no reason that they should not be flying out of your bow correctly. Something is wrong with your bow, your form, or your arrows; I just don't believe it is the broadhead in this case.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
ORIGINAL: ButchA The only thing I could suggest is what is called a "walk back tuning" method. Take 3 broadhead tipped arrows, and shoot one at 10 yards with your 20 yard pin. Then back up to 20 yards and shoot the 2nd broadhead with your 20 yard pin. Lastly, back up to 30 yards and shoot the last broadhead at 30 yards with your 20 yard pin. You should see a grouping like this. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... If the arrow group starts looking like it's going diagonal, then you definitely have tuning issues. Ditto, Best advice so far. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Take it to a pro shop if you cant get it figured out.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
The Rev's right: Butch A gave you the best specific advice.
I shoot both fixed blades and mechs -- but I only shoot mechs because I am very fond of their devastating performance and quick, clean kills I've experienced with them over the many, many years I've hunted, not as a band-aid to fix tuning issues. Mechs need to hit with as much straight-on force and kinetic energy as possible -- just like their fixed-blade brethren. Before you start using them, make sure your bow is perfectly tuned. Start with paper tuning, then go to Butch's walkback tuning method. You'll be getting really close then.Then, if you want to try mechs, I'd say go for it. God bless, and good hunting. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. The bow is going in for paper tuning this week. I am still fairly new to bowhunting and appreciate everyones advice.
I love the terminal performance of the Muzzy's and, I have 6 new heads to work with. (Plus 4 old ones for practice) Good Hunting, Bowflex |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
First thing I'd be concerned about is your arrows. NO fixed blade broadhead is going to shoot well on crooked arrows. Contrary to popular myth, carbon arrows can go crooked after some use. They can also start showing serious spine differences. They can and do wear out. They might look okay, but even carbon arrows need to be replaced when accuracy starts going crappy.
After getting good arrows, THEN work on your bow's tune.Paper tuning will get it roughed in and the method that Butch told you about will finish it off and get it done right. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Arther beat me to it
Sounds to me like an arrow problem , not a broadhead problem . Try some quality carbon , alluminum , or acc's , with 5" offset feathers and Ill bet you groups shrink cosiderably . Proper spine is critacal , allitel stiff is fine , but a littel weak will wreak havoc on your fixed broadhead , and mecanical groups . Small fletching will kill accuracy with fixed heads allso , use adaquate fletching for the job at hand . Lenn's advise on arrow straightness , nock allignment , and insert allignment , is criticall allso , as is nock fit . There are many pieces to the puzzel ,get one out of place and there goes your accuracy . |
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