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Tell me why I should switch...
To mechanical broadheads? In particular, the Spitfire 100 grain 3-blade broadhead.
I have been shooting Muzzy 100gr. 3-blades and have had horrible experiences with planing. Three arrows into a 3" circle at 30 yards, and then 2 arrows 3" left at 20 yards. I can't hunt with this kind of inaccuracy. Last season I took a 25 yard shot at a doe in a nice broadside position and hit her in the back of the rib cage! Fortunately she died within 80 yards of where I hit her. The terminal performance was great, the accuracy was not. I know there has been unending debates on this topic, but I have been watching some of the Archers Choice videos and I am blown away by the terminal performance of the Spitfires. A little input would be great. Thanks, Bowflex |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
First before making the switch make sure your bow has been paper tuned
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I would definitely switch. I used to shoot Thunderhead 100's and switched to Spitfire 100's. They put a huge hole in a deer. The last two I've gotten with them have gone less that 40 yards.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I will not tell you to switch, only leave you with this:
A Fixed blade broadhead will never not open!! |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I currently have the spitfire 100 grain and they fly just like the target tips do! Very accurate!
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I too am shooting Spitfire 100s and have never had a problem with them not opening. I shot 3 deer this year and all dropped close, one at 20 yards, one at around 25 yards and the farthest was about 40 yards. The heads fly deadly accurate and they leave bloodtrails that even a blind man could follow. I highly recommend them.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
OPS... wrong thread.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
The only thing I hate about the Spitfires is that you can't practice very much with them. After a few shots the blades break and the practice broadhead does not fly the same as the actual Spitfire. However, I have killed many deer with the Spitfires and they have done a terrific job everytime.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Alot of broadhead inaccuracery is a result of a improper setup or an untuned bow. Ive been able to fix just about every problem that someone has come to me with as far as broadhead flight. Papertuning can tell you what your problem is and then help you tune to a perfect bullet hole. That will 95% of the time lead to great broadhead flight.
Jason |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I have used both and have equal performance with both. They are both great broadheads. I currently use 3 blademuzzys as I bought a bunch for elk hunting last year and most people don't recommend expandables on elk. I know a lot of bear camps don't like them either. I have seen bears shot by Ralph with a spitfire and watch them drop within sight of the stand. I think the place where an expandable shines isin wide open windy places where long shots are the norm like antelope and barren ground caribou country. The wind is likely to have less effect on arrow performance with an expandable.A whitetail hunter in a treestand shooting 15-20 yds gains nothing by going with an expandable IMO.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
You got some tuning issues going on, to be sure. Check that out first. Muzzy has been around WAY too long and ENTIRELY too many people use them w/ great success for them to suck.
Personally, I'm going to tell you NOT to switch to mechanicals. If you want to try a different head, fine, but there are way too many really, really good fixed heads. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
The only thing I could suggest is what is called a "walk back tuning" method. Take 3 broadhead tipped arrows, and shoot one at 10 yards with your 20 yard pin. Then back up to 20 yards and shoot the 2nd broadhead with your 20 yard pin. Lastly, back up to 30 yards and shoot the last broadhead at 30 yards with your 20 yard pin. You should see a grouping like this.
............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... If the arrow group starts looking like it's going diagonal, then you definitely have tuning issues. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I have been shooting the spitfires for several years and I am a big fan. However like the others
said a tuned bow will shoot fixed blades great too. There are a lot of muzzy moments to ignore.:D:D |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
I too am going to have to question the tuning of your bow. I would suggest bare shaft tuning to make sure it is correct. I don't hunt with Muzzys, but I have shot them and there is no reason that they should not be flying out of your bow correctly. Something is wrong with your bow, your form, or your arrows; I just don't believe it is the broadhead in this case.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
ORIGINAL: ButchA The only thing I could suggest is what is called a "walk back tuning" method. Take 3 broadhead tipped arrows, and shoot one at 10 yards with your 20 yard pin. Then back up to 20 yards and shoot the 2nd broadhead with your 20 yard pin. Lastly, back up to 30 yards and shoot the last broadhead at 30 yards with your 20 yard pin. You should see a grouping like this. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... ...............X.............. ............................... ............................... If the arrow group starts looking like it's going diagonal, then you definitely have tuning issues. Ditto, Best advice so far. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Take it to a pro shop if you cant get it figured out.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
The Rev's right: Butch A gave you the best specific advice.
I shoot both fixed blades and mechs -- but I only shoot mechs because I am very fond of their devastating performance and quick, clean kills I've experienced with them over the many, many years I've hunted, not as a band-aid to fix tuning issues. Mechs need to hit with as much straight-on force and kinetic energy as possible -- just like their fixed-blade brethren. Before you start using them, make sure your bow is perfectly tuned. Start with paper tuning, then go to Butch's walkback tuning method. You'll be getting really close then.Then, if you want to try mechs, I'd say go for it. God bless, and good hunting. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. The bow is going in for paper tuning this week. I am still fairly new to bowhunting and appreciate everyones advice.
I love the terminal performance of the Muzzy's and, I have 6 new heads to work with. (Plus 4 old ones for practice) Good Hunting, Bowflex |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
First thing I'd be concerned about is your arrows. NO fixed blade broadhead is going to shoot well on crooked arrows. Contrary to popular myth, carbon arrows can go crooked after some use. They can also start showing serious spine differences. They can and do wear out. They might look okay, but even carbon arrows need to be replaced when accuracy starts going crappy.
After getting good arrows, THEN work on your bow's tune.Paper tuning will get it roughed in and the method that Butch told you about will finish it off and get it done right. |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Arther beat me to it
Sounds to me like an arrow problem , not a broadhead problem . Try some quality carbon , alluminum , or acc's , with 5" offset feathers and Ill bet you groups shrink cosiderably . Proper spine is critacal , allitel stiff is fine , but a littel weak will wreak havoc on your fixed broadhead , and mecanical groups . Small fletching will kill accuracy with fixed heads allso , use adaquate fletching for the job at hand . Lenn's advise on arrow straightness , nock allignment , and insert allignment , is criticall allso , as is nock fit . There are many pieces to the puzzel ,get one out of place and there goes your accuracy . |
RE: Tell me why I should switch...
Sounds to me like the question you need to be asking is "what do I need to do to tune my bow to shoot my broadheads accurately?" Mechanicals should not be used as an easy way to get an out of tune bow shooting correctly. That being said both of the broadheads you mentioned are great and either one should be fine to hunt with.
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RE: Tell me why I should switch...
My though on it being the arrows is if that were true then he wouldnt get good groups one day and scattered groups on another day. I going to stick with getting it paper tuned or use the walk back method but even with that method you will still need to paper tune. Go get it paper tuned and any good pro shop should have you shooting broadheads like a house fire in no time. Let us know how it works out for you. Keep an eye out as to how they do it and ask questions so you can do it yourself next time. Working on your own bow is the best way to learn the ins and outs of archery and with guyslike the guys on this site you should have no trouble learning to do so. Plus there are a few great book on the subject and TONS of info on the net.
Jason |
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