i pull it str8 back unless it is an 80 pound bow then i definately have to pull by skying the bow but my 28 in martin i can pull it str8 back unless i have shot about 30 to 40 times then i will start doing that a lil bit.

It seems to me that alot of the hunters on tv are perched pretty high in the tree so maybe they think they can get away with it. I usually only hunt between 12 to 16 feet off the ground and I wouldn't dream of skypulling. I haven't been picked offdrawing in about 12 years (knock on wood) and I take pride in that, I have a smooth, straight back draw. I practice with my bow maxed (72lbs) and about a month before the season turn it down to 65lbs.I can hold at full draw for two minutes (timed) without any shaking or tirednessand shoot the kill zone. I gained almost 25 seconds by turning it down to 65lbs. Luckily I haven't had to hold back that long, but the deer I shot last year decided to turn the wrong way after I drew, I passed up an iffy shot and I sweated it out for about a minute until he gave me the shot I wanted (I made a heart shot on him). It is a comforting feeling for me to know if I get stuck at full draw I can hold it for a while and still make a quality shot. I'm a big guy about 6'3" and 280 and my buddies question why I "only" draw 65lbs and now that I'm older and hopefully wiser I tell them that is what I'm comfortable with.

I practice every shot with the slow, smooth straight drawback, when I'm shooting and usually end with the stuck at full draw shot.

Chris

I used to pull straight back. Then I got rear ended twice, one at 65mph while I was stopped and the other at 45mph also while I was stopped. My body tells me to raise the bow up a bit (not much) while drawing. I have no choice.

If you can accuratly place a arrow into your target 10 out of 10 times, who gives a crap how you pull the string back!

I agree if you can't pull it straight back and smooth you are over bowed and should turnthe poundage down .It is safer to be able to draw in control.

I agree too...

I have shot a 65# bow for a few years and got comfortable with that. When I got my new bow and had it all setup and adjusted for me, the guy had it at 70# and had me pull that. But noticed me starting to pull the bow up to draw it. I could do 70# but then again when it's cold and snowy, and I'm cold, it wouldn't be a good thing to draw a 70# bow when you're cold and stiff on a tree stand.

Long story short, the bow shop set me up at 67# because that is right at the weight where I can handle it, draw it smoothly,and not pull the bow up.

Gotta go straight back. If it's tough to pull when you are calm at the range or in your backyard, it's gonna be even tougher when the buck or bull is 25yds in front of you...

I look at the target, raise the bow to the target and draw on what I am aiming at. I never take my eye off the target and draw the bow straight back with the pin on the target. If you shoot enough you shouldn't even have to think about drawing your bow and setting your anchor points, it should just happen. All you should do is aim. When I shoot an animal I normally don't even remember releasing the arrow, it just all sort of happens.

Paul