During my 37 years of bowhunting, I have owned and used several brands and types of recurves and compounds. I hunt hard, and in all kinds of weather and other bow/gear contaminating conditions. I have never had a bow, bow component, or accessory malfunction, break, or fall off. My equipment has always been trouble free for so many years, I have to occasionally remind myself not to become complacent.

What is my secret? I do not really have one. In fact, although I take good care of my equipment, I have always expected something to malfunction, break, or fall off, and am prepared to fix or replace certain vital components should a problem occur.

Following is a process I have always followed.


-I use only the gear that is basically necessary to be effective for what I am hunting, and for my shooting/hunting style and location.
-Before I choose a bow I research the history and reputation of any bow/component and bow/accessory manufacturer I am not familiar with, and that which I am familiar with but has had a design change.
-Efficiency, durability, and reliability are primary factors; not speed.
-I do not go with the crowd. Popularity of a particular bow/accessory (brand/type) does not guarantee the bow/accessory is any better than a “sleeper” bow/accessory, or that a popular bow/accessory meets my rules of selection, or fits me.
-Installation and securing of all accessories take precedent over fps. I tie and glue/LocTite anything that can move or loosen, without any concern of fps reduction. I know what a 170 fps bow can do at 20 yards. That knowledge and experience is my guide. If after I have firmly secured everything, I lose 10-15 fps off a 250-270 fps bow, I am ahead of the game.
-I keep my bow/accessories clean and treated. I carry two paint brushes in my bow-case along with a stick of string wax. One brush is dry, the other is lightly treated with a Teflon based oil. Before I go into the field and when I return from the field, I brush off all the bow components and accessories with the dry brush, paying particular attention to grooves and spaces. I brush the critical and friction producing areas with the treated brush, but I do not leave visible oil. Last, I heavily wax my string before I go and out and when I return.
-I always protect my bow when moving through brush and wet areas. If my route to my stand will take me through some heavy brush/briars, I carry my bow in a fabric bow-case.
-All my bow-hangers in my stands are wrapped with rubber, rope, or tape, so that my eccentrics do not rub against a hard and/or abrasive surface.
-Before I hunt and after I hunt, I always examine the bow, bow components, and all accessories for oncoming problems, breakage, adjustments, and loosening.
-During deer season, when I store or carry my bow, regardless the length of time, I make sure the bow is not exposed to unacceptable heat and humidity. A bow that is in a case can still sustain damage if the case is exposed to unacceptable heat e.g., sitting exposed to concentrated sunlight.
-When I store my bow after deer season is over, I relax the limbs and remove the string.
-Before the start of deer season and during, I touch up my broadheads and replace any blades and fletch that are not in good shape.
-I do not leave my arrows in the quiver for extended periods.

I do not use bows or accessories that are outside the time-proven parameters of design, necessity, and practicality. Why use a bow that provides more power and speed than is actually needed if there are downsides to doing so.




Edited by - c903 on 10/23/2002 22:21:16

your point?

Conveyed indirectly; to be inferred.

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Conveyed indirectly; to be inferred.
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Okay........I'm lost