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cut on contact / 4 blade fixed.

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cut on contact / 4 blade fixed.

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Old 02-22-2006, 06:43 PM
  #21  
 
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Default RE: cut on contact / 4 blade fixed.

I have experience with both slick tricks and stingers. Both are excellent heads with pros and cons. The stingers are scary sharp and penetrate very well. I have bent ferules on them-- but the same can be said of any aluminum ferule. They shoot well--frequently right with field tips but not always. I do all my broadhead tesing a 40 yds to check not only accuracy but point of impact as well. Stingers are very accurate, but even out of well tuned bows will drift a few inches compared to field tips and some of the shorter broadheads. I think the long blades are simply more prone to plane a bit. Slick tricks leave great big holes in whatever they hit. They also penetrate better than they should given the large cutting diameter. To date, they are the most accurate broadhead I have shot and shoot right with field tips out of any reasonably well tuned bow. Their blade sharpness is usually just barely shaving sharp, but not in the scary sharp category. Occaisionally, I'll touch them up. At one time, there was apparently a batch of ferules that hadn't been hardened properly and would shear right at the threads if something very hard was hit (in my case a shoulder blade at 10yds). I'm informed this problem has been solved--and given the source of the information, I believe it. For deer, these remain my head of choice for trophy hunting. For hogs or elk, unless you have sufficient energy, I'd opt for the stinger. Don't misunderstand me though, they are deadly on elk. For example, this past fall, I blew through the rib cage on a mature bull with the slick trick magnums and pulled the arrow out of 6" of dirt. In my experience, other superior heads that shoot right with field tips include wacems, ironhead 100s and turbos. In fact, when I'm just meat hunting, you'll find any of the above eads in my quiver as they all shoot so well--and I like experimenting. I hope to try the new 4 bladed wasp soon--I like the way it looks. Go check out 5-shots webpage. Its well worth the $ to subscribe and see his comparison of all the available heads. Very instructive.
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Old 02-22-2006, 06:48 PM
  #22  
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Default RE: cut on contact / 4 blade fixed.

Fshafly2, The 1" ST would be an excelent choice for moose. A 4 blade 1" diameter head is still a huge hole going through an animal and is still cutting more tissue than a three blade head with 1.25" cut.

I would also aim at the same places that you would aim on a deer. Avoid the big shoulder blade and you will be just fine.
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:37 AM
  #23  
Fork Horn
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Default RE: cut on contact / 4 blade fixed.

BigBull you made some very good points, the fletching and broad head being lined up was a real good point. I always thought this was more of a superstition than a fact.
Second I know that a field piont would not penetrate a well as a blade I just said it to make a point, perhaps I should have said a c.o.c head with a 1/4 inch blade or a muzzy without the blades.
I often here that COC heads penetrate better because of the sliceing of the tip, BUT I have shot deer at close range with a 70 lb draw and had a steel force head bend on the shoulder. I only got 8 or 9 inches of penetration. I have always thought that was more of a fluke but have always wondered what a chisle point would have done.
I also think it's not the tip as much as cutting area thet retards penetration.


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Old 02-23-2006, 11:32 AM
  #24  
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Default RE: cut on contact / 4 blade fixed.

ORIGINAL: bigbulls

Ok, I am going to start off by dispelling some of the "myths" I have read in this thread.

#1. lining up fletchings with blades does absolutely nothing for arrow flight. Never has and never will. It is 100% impossible to get your blades and fletchings to fly through the same air for more than a fraction of a second if at all. Just stop and think about all of the variables that are involved in arrow flight such as the arrows spin, wind speed, wind direction, other weather conditions, arrow speed and its constant slowing as it flys down range, the lost goes on and on. So please lets all forget about this lining up the fletchings mess.

#2. Two blade heads do not necessarily penetrate better than three or four blade heads and vice versa.

If bone is impacted the two blade head must slice through the bone leaving the shaft to punch a round hole and drag itself through the bone and create a good ammount of friction. A three or four blade head with a chisel tip, such as a Muzzy, will bust up the bone leaving a larger hole for the shaft to follow behind with little friction.

However, if no, or very little bone is contacted then the two blade head will out penetrate the chisel tip head every time. So it's a trade off. Personally I will take the chisel tip heads.

#3. A field point is the absolute least efficient way to get an arrow through an animal. Similar to the two blade head having to cut through bone but the field tip must PUSH its way through bone and muscle rather than efficiently slicing through it. There are no blades to create a "frictionless" hole for the shaft to follow.

#4. If your bow isn't tuned well then no broadhead will fly exactly like your field points.

There now that that's out of the way.



Broadheads that are known for field point accuracy and will fly extremely well if you do your part and that will slice right through deer, hogs, elk, and moose are.............

Slick tricks (my personal choice)
Montecs
Wacems
Magnus stingers
Wasp boss and boss bullet
Steel force line
Rocky mountain turbos, tradition, iron head 100
NAP nitrons
Razor caps
Rocket ultimate steel
American Broadhead's sonic and liberty

And many more. But if you can't get one of these, or all of them, to shoot well then you are doing something terribly wrong.
Well said, informative post. I appreciate the input. It may help me decide...The slick tricks have that chisel type tip, that's why I thought about using them.
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