I am consistently getting a moderate nock left paper tear when paper tuning. I always thought that a left tear meant you should move the rest out away from the riser more (right handed archer). However, I have conflicting information. Easton's and Bowhumter's tuning guides say to move the rest more towards rather than away from the riser. New Archery Prducts states on their website to move the rest away from the riser if getting a nock left tear. WHICH IS IT?

Also, throughout the years I have noticed that fletching contact is often the cause of imperfect tears. My problem could be related to fletching contact or a weak spined arrow, given the fact that my draw weight increased a few lbs. after twisting the cable. ANY ADVICE ON GETTING AN ACCEPTABLE PAPER TEAR?

Here is what I do to set up my hunting bow. This method is probably the slowest way out there. But it is a pretty sure way. Those tuning charts get confusing, especially for a lefty like me. I have a shoot through prong rest and use a release.

Spray your rest with an aerosol foot powder spray like Gold Bond to determine if you have any fletching contact. Eliminate all fletching contact before you worry about fine tuning with the paper test. One big worry down.

Now paper tune. Eliminate the vertical portion of the paper tear first by changing nocking point location or rest height as per the tuning guides.

Check for fletching contact again. If good, then proceed.

If you are getting a left or right tear, then move the rest 1/8" in one direction. It doesn't matter which direction if you use my trial-and-error method. Remember which way you moved it and don't change your rest height. Shoot through paper a few times. If tear gets smaller you moved the rest in the right direction. Keep going until you eliminate or minimize the tear.

If it gets bigger then you moved it in the wrong direction. Move the rest the other way 1/4" (1/8" back to original position and then 1/8" further) and shoot through paper. It should get smaller. Proceed as above.

Hopefully you are getting a decent tear now. Recheck for fletching contact. If all is good at this point, I call it quits and move on to broadhead tuning. Good to me is an inch or less of tear averaged over several distances. I tend to torque my bow and that causes most of my 'wild tears'. My bow is capable of much more accuracy than I am able to deliver. ie: most of my problems are form related, not equipment related.