Newbie questions
10-24-2003, 11:26 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Fredericksburg TX USA
Posts: 123
Newbie questions
Howdy. I' ve been lurking here for a while, taking in everything I can. I would like to hear your advice on what would be a good beginners bow, arrows, equipment, etc. I am a rifle hunter so I have hunting experience but would like to try something new. I have visions of teaching my sons how to bow hunt and shooting a few arrows after work (not so easily done with a rifle). I have no bow experience so any and all advice is welcome.
10-24-2003, 12:40 PM
#4
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 82
RE: Newbie questions
Hello Newbie,
I have a good tip for you. I live in Houston too and had been away from archery for many years. I recently bought a new bow online and had to get it set up. I spoke with Mike in the archery department at the Bass Pro Shop at the Katy Mills Mall. Mike set up everything for me, even though I didn' t buy the bow from him. He is very knowledgable and my new bow shoots great. What I liked most about Mike is that he is honest. (I know for a fact at least one pro shop in the Houston area is dishonest.) I wanted to buy an accessory from him and he discouraged me from spending the money. He didn' t try to sell me things I didn' t need. Bass Pro Shop has an extensive inventory of bows and equipment. They also have an indoor range for $7/hour.
If you decide to speak with Mike, call before you go in because he doesn' t work every day.
You might also take a look at the Buffalo Field Archery Club. They can be found on the web. They have a large outdoor range at Eldrige and Clay. I' m not a member yet but plan to join when I can shoot well enough not to endanger bystanders.
P.S. Where in Houston do you live. I' m in the NW suburbs.
I have a good tip for you. I live in Houston too and had been away from archery for many years. I recently bought a new bow online and had to get it set up. I spoke with Mike in the archery department at the Bass Pro Shop at the Katy Mills Mall. Mike set up everything for me, even though I didn' t buy the bow from him. He is very knowledgable and my new bow shoots great. What I liked most about Mike is that he is honest. (I know for a fact at least one pro shop in the Houston area is dishonest.) I wanted to buy an accessory from him and he discouraged me from spending the money. He didn' t try to sell me things I didn' t need. Bass Pro Shop has an extensive inventory of bows and equipment. They also have an indoor range for $7/hour.
If you decide to speak with Mike, call before you go in because he doesn' t work every day.
You might also take a look at the Buffalo Field Archery Club. They can be found on the web. They have a large outdoor range at Eldrige and Clay. I' m not a member yet but plan to join when I can shoot well enough not to endanger bystanders.
P.S. Where in Houston do you live. I' m in the NW suburbs.
10-24-2003, 04:27 PM
#5
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 82
RE: Newbie questions
Hello again,
I have some more thoughts for you. While I' m no expert, here are some things I used to know. The longer a bow, the more forgiving of your form faults it' s likelt to be. The same is true of brace height, the taller the brace height, the more forgiving. If you intend to hunt with your bow, I am told most North American game can be taken with a bow weight of 45 - 50#. Therefore, I am unsure why there is a need for a 70# bow though I have one hanging on my wall. The bow I am currently shooting is a 50 pounder with a peak draw weihght of 60#. Another factoid is that a bow performs most efficiently when the limbs are cranked all the way down. For my bow that would mean I' d be pulling 60#. Due to my long absense from archer, and my advanced age, I am still building back upper body strength.
I have some more thoughts for you. While I' m no expert, here are some things I used to know. The longer a bow, the more forgiving of your form faults it' s likelt to be. The same is true of brace height, the taller the brace height, the more forgiving. If you intend to hunt with your bow, I am told most North American game can be taken with a bow weight of 45 - 50#. Therefore, I am unsure why there is a need for a 70# bow though I have one hanging on my wall. The bow I am currently shooting is a 50 pounder with a peak draw weihght of 60#. Another factoid is that a bow performs most efficiently when the limbs are cranked all the way down. For my bow that would mean I' d be pulling 60#. Due to my long absense from archer, and my advanced age, I am still building back upper body strength.
10-25-2003, 08:49 AM
#6
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 82
RE: Newbie questions
Hello again,
As far as bows go, when I recently purchased my Martin Prowler SE ($350), I did so because it was a mid-priced bow that I thought offered good value. Another bow I considered was the PSE Thunderbolt ($300). I could not find the Thunderbolt in my draw weight so I was not able to give it a try but I understand it too offers alot of bow for the money.
You mentioned teaching your sons to shoot. I' ve read in magazines about a bow called the Genesis. This bow is offered by several companies. Its virtues are, as I understand it, that it grows with the child. Two children with different draw lengths and weights can use the same bow.
Good Luck
As far as bows go, when I recently purchased my Martin Prowler SE ($350), I did so because it was a mid-priced bow that I thought offered good value. Another bow I considered was the PSE Thunderbolt ($300). I could not find the Thunderbolt in my draw weight so I was not able to give it a try but I understand it too offers alot of bow for the money.
You mentioned teaching your sons to shoot. I' ve read in magazines about a bow called the Genesis. This bow is offered by several companies. Its virtues are, as I understand it, that it grows with the child. Two children with different draw lengths and weights can use the same bow.
Good Luck
10-27-2003, 01:57 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Fredericksburg TX USA
Posts: 123
RE: Newbie questions
All great advice, men. Keep it coming. I have a few other questions- What is brace height? Do all bows need an arrow rest? Carbon arrows or aluminum? I should be looking at longer bows- yes?
Willieboy- I live in the Spring Branch area of Houston- actually, very close to the archery range on Clay Rd. It' s on my way home from work. I' ve often thought about stopping there to check it out but the gate is always closed. Good idea about Bass Pro. I' ll try to get out there one of these weekends.
The purpose of this bow is to practice with to see if I might want to try actually hunting with it one day. I am about to purchase some nice Hill Country property with 20 acres and I see shooting a few arrows after work to relax. Maybe shooting a couple of turkeys that ramble through. I also see this as a way to get my sons into nature and hunting. It will be a few years before they are ready for a bow of their own but I' d like to start now.
Thanks again and keep the advice coming.
Willieboy- I live in the Spring Branch area of Houston- actually, very close to the archery range on Clay Rd. It' s on my way home from work. I' ve often thought about stopping there to check it out but the gate is always closed. Good idea about Bass Pro. I' ll try to get out there one of these weekends.
The purpose of this bow is to practice with to see if I might want to try actually hunting with it one day. I am about to purchase some nice Hill Country property with 20 acres and I see shooting a few arrows after work to relax. Maybe shooting a couple of turkeys that ramble through. I also see this as a way to get my sons into nature and hunting. It will be a few years before they are ready for a bow of their own but I' d like to start now.
Thanks again and keep the advice coming.
10-28-2003, 10:20 AM
#8
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 82
RE: Newbie questions
Brace height, as I understand it, is the distance between the sring and the deepest part of the grip that would split your thumb and the rest of your hand. Higher brace heights allow for greater accuracy but reduce arrow speed.
If I were you, I' d start out with a longer bow because they are more forgiving. Unless you' ll be shooting turkeys from a treestand or in dense brush, a short bow probably isn' t necessary. These days, most bows seem to be shorter. I guess that' s what the public wants. For example, as far as I know, the longest bow currently available is only 45" axle to axle (ATA). By way of contrast, I have a 12-15 year old Pearson compound with a 48" ATA. This bow, when I was strong enough to pull it, was a tack driver and much of this accuracy stemmed from the bows design. It is inherently accurate.
The only bows that usually don' t use an arrow rest are long bows and recurves. This is because the arrow rests on the arrow shelf, i.e., the cutout in the riser through which the arrow travels when released. I use the Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter on my bow. It is well thought of and has worked flawlessly for me.
I shoot aluminum arrows. I' ve never used carbon arrows because I believe they are more costly and I' ve read there is less consistency with regard to straightness from arrow to arrow. I bought my last arrows from Eders Archery. I need a 32" arrow due to my 31" draw length and Eders cut and fletches them for me. Eders is a nice online organization with which to work. (Bass Pro Shop didn' t stock arrows longer than 31" .)
Look, I have an archery range of sorts set up in my garage. If you would like to, you and your sons would be welcome to come over some evening or weekend and give it a go. I have a couple of bows that belonged to my kids when they were young that your sons might be able to handle. Let me know.
If I were you, I' d start out with a longer bow because they are more forgiving. Unless you' ll be shooting turkeys from a treestand or in dense brush, a short bow probably isn' t necessary. These days, most bows seem to be shorter. I guess that' s what the public wants. For example, as far as I know, the longest bow currently available is only 45" axle to axle (ATA). By way of contrast, I have a 12-15 year old Pearson compound with a 48" ATA. This bow, when I was strong enough to pull it, was a tack driver and much of this accuracy stemmed from the bows design. It is inherently accurate.
The only bows that usually don' t use an arrow rest are long bows and recurves. This is because the arrow rests on the arrow shelf, i.e., the cutout in the riser through which the arrow travels when released. I use the Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter on my bow. It is well thought of and has worked flawlessly for me.
I shoot aluminum arrows. I' ve never used carbon arrows because I believe they are more costly and I' ve read there is less consistency with regard to straightness from arrow to arrow. I bought my last arrows from Eders Archery. I need a 32" arrow due to my 31" draw length and Eders cut and fletches them for me. Eders is a nice online organization with which to work. (Bass Pro Shop didn' t stock arrows longer than 31" .)
Look, I have an archery range of sorts set up in my garage. If you would like to, you and your sons would be welcome to come over some evening or weekend and give it a go. I have a couple of bows that belonged to my kids when they were young that your sons might be able to handle. Let me know.
11-03-2003, 03:10 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Fredericksburg TX USA
Posts: 123
RE: Newbie questions
Willieboy, thanks for the offer. Now I just have to work out how I' m going to tell the wife about my newest " interest" . I just bought a new rifle so talking her into a bow will be tricky. It will be a few years before my sons start hunting, they are only 3 and 1. But I can' t wait. I' ll let you know if I can clear up some time. I sure appreciate your offer, thanks again. I still need to get out to Bass Pro to check things out.