tenpointer65

The broadheads he was telling me about were the Bunker Busters. The 100 grain has a 1" cut. I have shot both mechanical and fixed. I started out with 125 Thunderheads and tried the 125 Spitfire. While using the mechanical I shot a buck while on the ground and the arrow didn't go in but 4 inches. I had a good hit, no bone except for the ribs. There was no blood trail I could find. My arrow was later found in the year by another hunter in our group. Last year while hunting with 100 grain Thunderheads I hit a nice 10 a little far back and still the arrow didn't go in all the way or pass through. Both shots were from no more than 25 yards. I am shooting a Golden Eagle pulling 70# with carbon arrows. I should be getting better penetration than what I am.
I didn't go with the Bunker Busters but bought the Grim Reapers with the cut on impact tip. Because of my last experience with mechanicals I am thinking about taking them back and trying Muzzys.

davepjr71

The bunkerbuster looks like a huge head with itty bitty blades. Kind of like a field tip on steroids with tiny fins.The middle is really fat and seems like it would have to force it's way through since the tip is much smaller.

The Muzzy's are cut on contact too and have been proven time and time again.

tenpointer65

Hey davepjr, any insight as to why I am not getting good penetration? Or is it just one of those things? I saw your comments about mechanicals in another topic and know where you stand on them. To let you know fixed shoots straight I wanted to try them but I don't know why I tried them again???? He told me that he sold 80% mechanical to 20% fixed. I guess that's why I bought them again. Plus I figured they could have been approved onin 4 years since I tried the Spit Fires.

davepjr71

Without seeing the shots it's not possible to say what happened. Where they both broadside shots?

The Spitfire on ribs could have hindered the broadhead opening properly and stopped it pretty fast. If the shot was high the ribs are much thicker there.

I don't know how well your bow is tuned and you can loose a lot of KE and momentum on impact if the arrow is not flying properly.

If you have the same problem with a broadhead like the Muzzy I'd be surprised as long as the bow is tuned.

With that said they have come a long way with mechanicals in 4 years. The shop sells more mechanicals because most people do not worry about if their bows are out of tune. And a fixed blade broadhead will not fly properly if the bow is not tuned.



I'm not a big proponent on paper tuning. However, shooting through paper will tell you if your set-up has problems.

huntwi88

Over the last 2 years of bowhunting I've used Aftershock Archerys 2" expandable broadhead. I think bigger is better, out of 5 deer shot i had 1 go 60 yards!!!! I've witnessed the other 4 die. And I've hit them all in different spots......double lung, heart, back in the liver and it dont matter they go down. This year im trying out the Rage 2 blade2" expandbles. But im not sayin thats the only way to go because I know any smaller blades will work....just sharing my experiences

SouthDakotaHunter

You may want to look at your local regs as well. In my home state broadheads must have a cutting diameter at least 7/8-inches wide and must be at least as long as they are wide.

Just as important as anything - your broadheads MUST be razor sharp. Other wise they aren't going to work as efficient as they should...

Shimmeringleaves

I do agree that aproper shot, a well tuned bow, and sharp broadheads will result in a quick and humane expiration of the animal you are hunting. Massive bleeding deprives the brain from receiving critical oxygen which is needed, thus the animal basically suffocates due to the lack of oxygen on top of the lungs not being able to do what they were designed to do...deliver oxygen to the brain.Massive blood loss results in shock and etc. So where am I going with all this? The bigger the cut path from a sharp broadhead the more blood loss. Tuning those bigger BH's takes some time and patience, but it is all worth it in the end. Like I have seen here in many other different posts, the BH is the business end of the arrow.

MDBUCKHUNTER

WRONG. Bullets kill by hemorrage, broadheads kill by bleeding out.

Don't forget, larger broadheads tend to plane more than smaller broadheads. Also, blade sharpness and how tuned your bow is, is just as important if not more important, IMO.

davepjr71

Josh,

Hemmorrhaging is bleeding. I think you got your terms confused buddy.
From Marriam-Webster
1 : a copious discharge of blood from the blood vessels

I think too many people overlook the fact that a 3-blade 1.25" BH causes as much or more damage than a 2"-2-blade. Sure, the cutting length is longer. However, people seem to overlook the other blade that is cutting an additional path through the deer opening a hole instead of a slit. With a 4-blade you can add anothercut path.

A deer shot through the lungs dies from suffication.Thechest cavityfills up with blood and the lungs can no longer expand. If shot through the heart it dies from lack of oxygen to the brain from hemorrhaging.

WVSPORTSMAN

if you are not getting good penetration try switching to a two blade broadhead. how old is your bow....more than 3-4 years you need a tune up and new strings...if it is several years old make sure you choose the right bow tech...i usually try to find one that shoots professionally or at leastsomeonethatdoes well in local shoots in your area.. if your bow out of tune, they'll know right away...try different vanes also...they don't make a great difference but the can help with placement of shots....always practice with at least one to two broadheads that you shoot..arrow types can make a big difference....axis will have more KE but less overall speed than a arrow like beman ics hunters...carbon express new maxima with FOC seems to be a good choice also. you stated that you shoot 70# weight, but what is you draw lenght....you will lose about 10 fps for every inch less than 30...give or take...best advice i have is to call around and find a shop with a good chronograph that can give you speed of your bow, KE from your arrows, and it should give you a print out of the distance for your pins out to at least 80 yards.....

ALWAYS.......GOOD HUNTING