Plastic Sabots in Bulk
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 53
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From:
New to the forum all........
I'm an old hat to muzzleloading, but new to the inline game.
For Xmas, my wife got me a CVA Kodiak, and although it's a nice gun, I've had past experiences with CVA that weren't all that great. After a thorough search of info and comparisons on inlines, I opted to take the gun back where she got it (with her blessings) and I ordered the TC Omega from Natchez.
I've had many many years experience with TC products and have really never been disappointed.
I ordered the SS/Hardwooods Omega, and with all the good write up's, both here and on other forums, I highly doubt I'll be disappointed.
The last combo I used to hunt with was a TC Renegade, patched roundballs, a hotshot nipple, and 90grs. of Pyrodex. Never used the pellets, but I've read they're encased in a black powder accellerant coating.
Randy Wakeman (BP writer) stated that they (Pyrodex pellets) were less powerful but more consistent than the Triple 7 pellets due to their added coating.
Triple 7, which doesn't have this BP coating, apparently ignites a little harder, and it's makeup is based on sugar. This might be the reason for the dirty "ring" residue that most speak of.
What I've heard from local hunters who use the T7 pellets is that they perform very well for them. Don't know here?????
What I'm really looking for is info from the Omega shooters in regards to purchasing bagged "bulk" sabots which I can shoot cast HP's in.
I cast many different styles of SWC's and HP bullets and I'd prefer to shoot them with a quality plastic sabot.
Also, info on Triple 7, Pyrodex pellets, and the much "hard to find" Mag powder will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
I'm an old hat to muzzleloading, but new to the inline game.
For Xmas, my wife got me a CVA Kodiak, and although it's a nice gun, I've had past experiences with CVA that weren't all that great. After a thorough search of info and comparisons on inlines, I opted to take the gun back where she got it (with her blessings) and I ordered the TC Omega from Natchez.
I've had many many years experience with TC products and have really never been disappointed.
I ordered the SS/Hardwooods Omega, and with all the good write up's, both here and on other forums, I highly doubt I'll be disappointed.
The last combo I used to hunt with was a TC Renegade, patched roundballs, a hotshot nipple, and 90grs. of Pyrodex. Never used the pellets, but I've read they're encased in a black powder accellerant coating.
Randy Wakeman (BP writer) stated that they (Pyrodex pellets) were less powerful but more consistent than the Triple 7 pellets due to their added coating.
Triple 7, which doesn't have this BP coating, apparently ignites a little harder, and it's makeup is based on sugar. This might be the reason for the dirty "ring" residue that most speak of.
What I've heard from local hunters who use the T7 pellets is that they perform very well for them. Don't know here?????
What I'm really looking for is info from the Omega shooters in regards to purchasing bagged "bulk" sabots which I can shoot cast HP's in.
I cast many different styles of SWC's and HP bullets and I'd prefer to shoot them with a quality plastic sabot.
Also, info on Triple 7, Pyrodex pellets, and the much "hard to find" Mag powder will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
#2
Welcome Handgunr!
No to bag on CVA/BPI, but you will be most pleased with your switch to the T/C Omega!
For sabots - "Harvester Sabots" in 50 pack. .50cal Green for under 300gr, Black for 300 grain and up bullets;
http://www.gamaliel.com/muzzleloading/Harvester/
Also at Cabela's http://www.cabelas.com
Powder-wise, 777 is very good powder in both loose and pellet form.
I switched and now very much prefer Black Mag'3 loose powder. Which is available through Cabela's if you cannot find it locally.
For hunting, I have had supreme success and results with the Hornady 300gr SST.
Best,
No to bag on CVA/BPI, but you will be most pleased with your switch to the T/C Omega!
For sabots - "Harvester Sabots" in 50 pack. .50cal Green for under 300gr, Black for 300 grain and up bullets;
http://www.gamaliel.com/muzzleloading/Harvester/
Also at Cabela's http://www.cabelas.com
Powder-wise, 777 is very good powder in both loose and pellet form.
I switched and now very much prefer Black Mag'3 loose powder. Which is available through Cabela's if you cannot find it locally.
For hunting, I have had supreme success and results with the Hornady 300gr SST.
Best,
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,922
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777 being harder to ignite is an "Ol' Wives Tale" If that being the case, then why does Hodgdon need to put blackpowder on the bottom of Pyrodex pellets & not any "booster' on 777 pellets?
I own the dressed-to-kill Omega! Cast bullets create keyholing at longer target distances -- above 85 grains. I tried a couple of different ones. If you lived nearby me, I'd give-away the several hundred I have left.
Omegas generally have tight bores. Buy .429 or .451 Speer or Nosler bulk HPs/SPs along with Harvester sabots in 50-pks for best results/easier loading. Nosler top-of-the-line are their Partitions. Speer top-of-the-food-chain are their Gold Dots. I personally like the value of the Speer Gold Dot round nose soft-points for accuracy & harvesting game.
I own the dressed-to-kill Omega! Cast bullets create keyholing at longer target distances -- above 85 grains. I tried a couple of different ones. If you lived nearby me, I'd give-away the several hundred I have left.
Omegas generally have tight bores. Buy .429 or .451 Speer or Nosler bulk HPs/SPs along with Harvester sabots in 50-pks for best results/easier loading. Nosler top-of-the-line are their Partitions. Speer top-of-the-food-chain are their Gold Dots. I personally like the value of the Speer Gold Dot round nose soft-points for accuracy & harvesting game.
#4
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From:
Appreciate the site Tahquamenon....thanks. Quite a bit cheaper than Cabela's!
I appreciate your advise Triple, but in their basic canned form Pyrodex is definitely harder to ignite than Triple 7, thus the reason for the black powder accellerant coating when converted to pellets. Also Pyrodex contains sulfur which T7 doesn't, making T7 less corrosive, if at all.
But, that being said, pellet form wise, and with the accellerant "as sold", Pyrodex has an added advantage there only as far as the initial igniting is concerned.
Once both are ignited I'm sure that with the lack of sulfur in it's compound, Triple 7 probably burns quite a bit faster and cleaner. Although anything that I've read about it "to date" indicates "burn rings" of soot or contamination towards the breech end of the barrel. I don't know this from experience, just what I've read.
It has surfaced alot in many articles and forums of late, and too much to just be ignored.
Randy Wakeman "seems" like quite an authority on the whole game and he's written about the differences in his article " What is the Difference between Black, Pyrodex, Triple Seven, and Smokeless Powders? "
I've been working with powders and bullets for over 35yrs, but I'll gladly admit it's been 99% smokeless and blackpowder.
One of the secrets of making cast bullets fly straight is the BHN rating of the alloy, sizing, and partially, matching the weight to the rate of twist. As long as the bullet is of sound balance, hard enough and sized correctly, and also providing that the other factors are in check, it should fly every bit as good.
One reason this is a successful venture and works well is the reason why you see many cast bullet/sabot combinations out there.
Not all good loads contain jacketed bullets. They perform well, I'll give you that, but one reason why I switched to cast bullets "only" in my handgun (revolver) hunting is because they perform even better if the right choices are made regarding configuration and hardness.
my 2......
Thanks,
Bob
I appreciate your advise Triple, but in their basic canned form Pyrodex is definitely harder to ignite than Triple 7, thus the reason for the black powder accellerant coating when converted to pellets. Also Pyrodex contains sulfur which T7 doesn't, making T7 less corrosive, if at all.
But, that being said, pellet form wise, and with the accellerant "as sold", Pyrodex has an added advantage there only as far as the initial igniting is concerned.
Once both are ignited I'm sure that with the lack of sulfur in it's compound, Triple 7 probably burns quite a bit faster and cleaner. Although anything that I've read about it "to date" indicates "burn rings" of soot or contamination towards the breech end of the barrel. I don't know this from experience, just what I've read.
It has surfaced alot in many articles and forums of late, and too much to just be ignored.
Randy Wakeman "seems" like quite an authority on the whole game and he's written about the differences in his article " What is the Difference between Black, Pyrodex, Triple Seven, and Smokeless Powders? "
I've been working with powders and bullets for over 35yrs, but I'll gladly admit it's been 99% smokeless and blackpowder.
One of the secrets of making cast bullets fly straight is the BHN rating of the alloy, sizing, and partially, matching the weight to the rate of twist. As long as the bullet is of sound balance, hard enough and sized correctly, and also providing that the other factors are in check, it should fly every bit as good.
One reason this is a successful venture and works well is the reason why you see many cast bullet/sabot combinations out there.
Not all good loads contain jacketed bullets. They perform well, I'll give you that, but one reason why I switched to cast bullets "only" in my handgun (revolver) hunting is because they perform even better if the right choices are made regarding configuration and hardness.
my 2......
Thanks,
Bob
#6
Typical Buck
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 986
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, Arizona
I agree the Harvester sabots are the way to go. My stainless .50 Omega is difficult to load with sabots and I have to select bullets .451 or .450 with the Harvester to get them down the barrel. I had very bad results with tripple seven. I don't like the crud ring that is still partially there after I switched to the .25ACP breechplug (fixed the problem about 80%). I don't like the sharp recoil that I get with 777 and the lack of velocity that is possible with Black Mag3 without the sharp recoil. 777 creates a breechplug seizing problem also which can be handled with teflon tape if done right but this is not a problem with BM3.
#7
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,092
Likes: 0
#8
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 53
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From:
ML.
I'd give BlackMagic3 a try if it wasn't for the difficulty in aquiring it. I have a components supplier in Rochester, NY that I by bulk from, and he might be able to get a couple of pounds, don't know.
Another option that I thought about was Hodgdon's "Select"........?
It reads as though it would perform real well, but you never see anyone writing/talking about it much.
The Harvester Sabots look like winners also. As far a sizing goes, regarding bullets, that's where cast shines. I can size bullets down to the exact diameter (+sabot) that will fit the bore. Usually, when sizing a cast bullet to a specific revolver, oversizing it can ruin the bullet and degrade it's accuracy potential.
Oversizing (slightly) regarding muzzleloaders, if necessary, shouldn't be an issue as there's no direct contact with the bore.
Can't wait for the gun to get here and get some benchtime. Got to start gathering powder & sabots.
Take care,
Bob
I'd give BlackMagic3 a try if it wasn't for the difficulty in aquiring it. I have a components supplier in Rochester, NY that I by bulk from, and he might be able to get a couple of pounds, don't know.
Another option that I thought about was Hodgdon's "Select"........?
It reads as though it would perform real well, but you never see anyone writing/talking about it much.
The Harvester Sabots look like winners also. As far a sizing goes, regarding bullets, that's where cast shines. I can size bullets down to the exact diameter (+sabot) that will fit the bore. Usually, when sizing a cast bullet to a specific revolver, oversizing it can ruin the bullet and degrade it's accuracy potential.
Oversizing (slightly) regarding muzzleloaders, if necessary, shouldn't be an issue as there's no direct contact with the bore.
Can't wait for the gun to get here and get some benchtime. Got to start gathering powder & sabots.
Take care,
Bob
#9
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,092
Likes: 0
Handgunr, check the Midsouth link above. They also have BlackMag3 but NOT cheap. No need to oversize, size them to exactly fit the sabot (.451 for a .451/.50 sabot) - I think that will give you optimum results. Oversizing will make loading EXTREMELY difficult.
Recommend you buy yourself a good quality range rod while you are Midsouth, something solid or at least unbreakable and with a good handle. Harvester makes a nice little short starter that works as a palm saver (check those at Midsouth).
You might also take a look at the nose of the bullets you are going to cast and try to find a seating jag that will do the least damage. Barnes makes an aligner that works well with most bullets but also tends to work loose on the rod. You might want to cruise around at http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/item_index.asp to see what they have in the way of rods and attachments. Super Rod Range or Hunter models are very good. I have one in 7/16" diameter that gets a lot of use (when I shoot [
] ). Cains is a good place to stock up cleaning accessories while you are there.
Something else you are going to need is cleaning patches - start looking for buys on those or break out the old underwear and start cutting. Something close to 2" sizing should work nicely.
By the way - Triple7 is most definitely corrosive. Under certain conditions, it is only slightly less corrosive than Pyrodex. Pyro select is just a more expensive RS that supposedly is screened to a more consistant granular size. I like Pyro P - shoots cleaner, burns hotter, measures better, and more shots/pound.
Funny thing how "barrel ringing" that was always such a concern is never mentioned with Triple7 loads....
Recommend you buy yourself a good quality range rod while you are Midsouth, something solid or at least unbreakable and with a good handle. Harvester makes a nice little short starter that works as a palm saver (check those at Midsouth).
You might also take a look at the nose of the bullets you are going to cast and try to find a seating jag that will do the least damage. Barnes makes an aligner that works well with most bullets but also tends to work loose on the rod. You might want to cruise around at http://www.cainsoutdoor.com/cart/asp/item_index.asp to see what they have in the way of rods and attachments. Super Rod Range or Hunter models are very good. I have one in 7/16" diameter that gets a lot of use (when I shoot [
] ). Cains is a good place to stock up cleaning accessories while you are there.Something else you are going to need is cleaning patches - start looking for buys on those or break out the old underwear and start cutting. Something close to 2" sizing should work nicely.
By the way - Triple7 is most definitely corrosive. Under certain conditions, it is only slightly less corrosive than Pyrodex. Pyro select is just a more expensive RS that supposedly is screened to a more consistant granular size. I like Pyro P - shoots cleaner, burns hotter, measures better, and more shots/pound.
Funny thing how "barrel ringing" that was always such a concern is never mentioned with Triple7 loads....
#10
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 53
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From:
UC,
Thanks for the tips. Maybe I misspoke, but what I meant by oversizing was to size bullets down too far.....kind of a mis-nomer in the cast bullet world.......similar to "Jumbo-Shrimp".
Probably a better way to discribe it would be sizing "to" bore diameter including the sabot.
I have the ability to size bullets in increments of .001, from .428 to .431,
so I should be able to cover sizing depending on the size of the sabots.
I know the pellets are preferred by most for their ease of use, but I handle and weigh powder alot. 50 pellets at 50grs = 2500grs at (if I remember) was around $18.
1 pound of canned powder is 7000grs for about $13-15 per lb. Packing charges into "quick loaders" or even old small pill bottles works well.
I used to pre-measure on my digital scales and take the loads afield with me that way.
Thanks for the links & info.......I use Midsouth and Natchez often and I'm no stranger to them $$$$$$$
I have a range on my property, and as soon as I can get everything here, I'll shoot and post any results or findings.
Take care & thanks again,
Bob
Thanks for the tips. Maybe I misspoke, but what I meant by oversizing was to size bullets down too far.....kind of a mis-nomer in the cast bullet world.......similar to "Jumbo-Shrimp".
Probably a better way to discribe it would be sizing "to" bore diameter including the sabot.
I have the ability to size bullets in increments of .001, from .428 to .431,
so I should be able to cover sizing depending on the size of the sabots.
I know the pellets are preferred by most for their ease of use, but I handle and weigh powder alot. 50 pellets at 50grs = 2500grs at (if I remember) was around $18.
1 pound of canned powder is 7000grs for about $13-15 per lb. Packing charges into "quick loaders" or even old small pill bottles works well.
I used to pre-measure on my digital scales and take the loads afield with me that way.
Thanks for the links & info.......I use Midsouth and Natchez often and I'm no stranger to them $$$$$$$
I have a range on my property, and as soon as I can get everything here, I'll shoot and post any results or findings.
Take care & thanks again,
Bob


