Appreciate the site Tahquamenon....thanks. Quite a bit cheaper than Cabela's!

I appreciate your advise Triple, but in their basic canned form Pyrodex is definitely harder to ignite than Triple 7, thus the reason for the black powder accellerant coating when converted to pellets. Also Pyrodex contains sulfur which T7 doesn't, making T7 less corrosive, if at all.
But, that being said, pellet form wise, and with the accellerant "as sold", Pyrodex has an added advantage there only as far as the initial igniting is concerned.
Once both are ignited I'm sure that with the lack of sulfur in it's compound, Triple 7 probably burns quite a bit faster and cleaner. Although anything that I've read about it "to date" indicates "burn rings" of soot or contamination towards the breech end of the barrel. I don't know this from experience, just what I've read.
It has surfaced alot in many articles and forums of late, and too much to just be ignored.

Randy Wakeman "seems" like quite an authority on the whole game and he's written about the differences in his article " What is the Difference between Black, Pyrodex, Triple Seven, and Smokeless Powders? "

I've been working with powders and bullets for over 35yrs, but I'll gladly admit it's been 99% smokeless and blackpowder.
One of the secrets of making cast bullets fly straight is the BHN rating of the alloy, sizing, and partially, matching the weight to the rate of twist. As long as the bullet is of sound balance, hard enough and sized correctly, and also providing that the other factors are in check, it should fly every bit as good.
One reason this is a successful venture and works well is the reason why you see many cast bullet/sabot combinations out there.
Not all good loads contain jacketed bullets. They perform well, I'll give you that, but one reason why I switched to cast bullets "only" in my handgun (revolver) hunting is because they perform even better if the right choices are made regarding configuration and hardness.

my 2......

Thanks,
Bob