Breech Plug Part 2
#1
Toby has written an article that he believes explains his accident with the Savage. In that article I think he points out the importance of sealing the breech plug face to the face of the barrel snuggly - I would not say cranked down tight, but tight enough that gasses do not escape by the face. If they are the cutting of the barrel face and plug have begun. As much as I shoot it really makes me wonder, but on the other hand when I remove the breech plug from my Remington and the tape is still pink and un-burned, I am banking on the fact that no gases are passing beyond the plug-to-barrel seal.
Here is the article...
http://www.hpmuzzleloading.com/industry.html
Here is the article...
http://www.hpmuzzleloading.com/industry.html
#2
That's an interesting artical and does make a lot of sense. What brand of teflon tape do you use sabotloader? Also do you also apply antiseize to the outside of the tape also? I checked my breech plugs after reading the artical and I can see no wear what so ever on the plugs. The Black Diamond has to have several hundred rounds through it already. I guess I better keep a closer eye on the rifles. Thanks for the heads up.
#3
I don't think you or I will ever put the rounds through one gun the way Bridges did, nor we build the pressures that he was building, but the fact that pressure cutting is possible is a concern.
I am certainly not a muzzleloading engineer, but my conversations with Remington and Austin Halleck factory people have lead me to beleive the gun is designed so that the face of the BP should seal against the rear face/flange of the barrel just after the threads. If you can get the gasses stopped at this bearing point what happens back in the threads of the breech plug are not a concern and of course seizing would not occur at all - rust and primer/cap contamination yes. If there is a gas escape backwards it is, or at least it seems possible, for these pressure cuts could occur.
It is my belief that the plug must be sealed on both ends. The business end as well as the primer/cap end. Again the way I wrap my plugs I do overlap both ends of the plug.
I am using the TC tape because it is thicker and seems more resistant to heat. I know longer use an anti seize lubricant at all, although I did at first. By taping the face of the plug with TC tape I do not have to worry about contamination of the powder and the tape at the rear prevents primer contamination.
Cayugad, I am still a firm believer of your theory "if it isn't broke don't fix it" so if you you are happy don't change, my concern only lies with the safety aspect when we might allow undo pressure back into an area/space that that is not designed to take the pressure. My other concern would be the microscopic movement back and forth and the contraction/expansion of a somewhat loose Breech Plug. Two prime ingrediants of metal fatigue. All of this is not something you can see or measure only the results after it has happened.
Best of luck during hunting season, may it last til your winter is over....
I am certainly not a muzzleloading engineer, but my conversations with Remington and Austin Halleck factory people have lead me to beleive the gun is designed so that the face of the BP should seal against the rear face/flange of the barrel just after the threads. If you can get the gasses stopped at this bearing point what happens back in the threads of the breech plug are not a concern and of course seizing would not occur at all - rust and primer/cap contamination yes. If there is a gas escape backwards it is, or at least it seems possible, for these pressure cuts could occur.
It is my belief that the plug must be sealed on both ends. The business end as well as the primer/cap end. Again the way I wrap my plugs I do overlap both ends of the plug.
I am using the TC tape because it is thicker and seems more resistant to heat. I know longer use an anti seize lubricant at all, although I did at first. By taping the face of the plug with TC tape I do not have to worry about contamination of the powder and the tape at the rear prevents primer contamination.
Cayugad, I am still a firm believer of your theory "if it isn't broke don't fix it" so if you you are happy don't change, my concern only lies with the safety aspect when we might allow undo pressure back into an area/space that that is not designed to take the pressure. My other concern would be the microscopic movement back and forth and the contraction/expansion of a somewhat loose Breech Plug. Two prime ingrediants of metal fatigue. All of this is not something you can see or measure only the results after it has happened.
Best of luck during hunting season, may it last til your winter is over....
#5
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 0
From: The Wild Turkey Capitol of the World......Missouri
I purchased some of the T/C tape and next time at the range, I'm going to give the taping of the plug a try. I like the idea of not having to use the messy grease. How easy is it to clean the threads in the breech and on the plug after firing off Triple 7 loads?? If it's easier than cleaning up nasty grease, then I'd say it is an improvement indeed!
#7
MOTurkeyTamer
What I have found is: If the breech and breech plug threads are tight they will cut the tape as you screw the plug and in and when you remove it - so not always does the tape stay on the plug when you take it out. On the other hand the Remington plug screws in very easily and comeout very easily tape intact.
Cleaning the plug is simple with a brass toothbrush if necessary and clean the breech of left over tape with a simular breech brush or a brass bore brush.
If you decide to use the tape make sure to tape the entire plug - start from the face and tape to the rear - accounting for thread direction.
Underclocked
Thanks for the heads-up on the tape - I have looked for it commercially several times but have not been able to score, you location will help.
For other tape users, trying to use regular light weight white plumbers tape is marginal.
What I have found is: If the breech and breech plug threads are tight they will cut the tape as you screw the plug and in and when you remove it - so not always does the tape stay on the plug when you take it out. On the other hand the Remington plug screws in very easily and comeout very easily tape intact.
Cleaning the plug is simple with a brass toothbrush if necessary and clean the breech of left over tape with a simular breech brush or a brass bore brush.
If you decide to use the tape make sure to tape the entire plug - start from the face and tape to the rear - accounting for thread direction.
Underclocked
Thanks for the heads-up on the tape - I have looked for it commercially several times but have not been able to score, you location will help.
For other tape users, trying to use regular light weight white plumbers tape is marginal.




