Three questions
#1
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Joined: Mar 2003
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1, On my Hawkens once and only once when I pulled the trigger it didn't fire it for some reason stopped at half cock and I was wandering if something wasn't set right on the double triggers or was it just a fluke? like I said it only dun it once but that once could have been with a ten point standing in front of me [:'(] so I thought I'd ask about it because I've never had anything with double triggers on it..
2, I used some triple seven for the first time, for the first few shots and all the holes in the paper was clean round holes but I changed to Pyrodex and all the holes had tares all around the edges the holes from the Pyrodex shots.
Any one else notice this?
And 3, This ones for Triple Se7en, What the heck is an "alky" patch ????
2, I used some triple seven for the first time, for the first few shots and all the holes in the paper was clean round holes but I changed to Pyrodex and all the holes had tares all around the edges the holes from the Pyrodex shots.
Any one else notice this?
And 3, This ones for Triple Se7en, What the heck is an "alky" patch ????
#2
i can maybe answer number 3......sounds like a patch soaked in alcohol....i use em all the time to clean my flinter up....the frizzen and flint mainly....but i run them down the bore when shooting to clean up some fouling.....
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,922
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Most likely, your 777 holes had more velocity/energy -- resulting in the difference in the circle-edging.
When was the last ime you cleaned the trigger assembly & lock assembly? Use auto brake cleaner spray & gun oil with a soft toothbrush for the lock... light oil spray -- then a dry toothbrush & dry cloth dabbing for the trigger areas. Look for black paint missing on either assembly -- seeing shiny, silvery parts instead. That's a sign of wear. Also, when removing either, look for small wood chips from the stock which may signal binding. Hope this solves your problem.
P.S... Alky is rubbing alcohol. Buy a minimum of 70% that's usually shown on the front label. It'll usually say 50-70-90% somewhere on the front paper. Use it to remove all traces of oils in your bore prior to shooting. Use it to remove water/moisture after cleaning the bore with soap & water treatments many ml shooters use... especially with sidelocks.
When was the last ime you cleaned the trigger assembly & lock assembly? Use auto brake cleaner spray & gun oil with a soft toothbrush for the lock... light oil spray -- then a dry toothbrush & dry cloth dabbing for the trigger areas. Look for black paint missing on either assembly -- seeing shiny, silvery parts instead. That's a sign of wear. Also, when removing either, look for small wood chips from the stock which may signal binding. Hope this solves your problem.
P.S... Alky is rubbing alcohol. Buy a minimum of 70% that's usually shown on the front label. It'll usually say 50-70-90% somewhere on the front paper. Use it to remove all traces of oils in your bore prior to shooting. Use it to remove water/moisture after cleaning the bore with soap & water treatments many ml shooters use... especially with sidelocks.
#4
Question #1 had that happen on my T/C Renegade. I discovered a spent cap had falled between the wood stock and the hammer. The result was to slow the fall of the hammer enough that the half cock caught. What probably happen is once you recocked the hammer the spent cap slipped out away from the hammer and the rifle fired fine..
Question #2 I am guessing that by using the Triple Se7en you increased the speed of the projectile enough that it made a different cutting appearance in the paper compared to a different propellant. If you want to test that theory better, shoot a projectile through a 1" pine board and look at the holes using the different powders you mentioned. This will tell you if any of the projectiles are starting to loose their true flight...
Question #3 Yep it usually means a patch with alcohol. I personally used denatured alcohol to do all my swabbing with. It works great, is inexpensive, easy to get at the local lumber yard, and it drys almost at once in the barrel what you leave behind off the patch. That way there is less danger of contamination of the next powder charge. It will also burn off when you fire the next charge...
Question #2 I am guessing that by using the Triple Se7en you increased the speed of the projectile enough that it made a different cutting appearance in the paper compared to a different propellant. If you want to test that theory better, shoot a projectile through a 1" pine board and look at the holes using the different powders you mentioned. This will tell you if any of the projectiles are starting to loose their true flight...
Question #3 Yep it usually means a patch with alcohol. I personally used denatured alcohol to do all my swabbing with. It works great, is inexpensive, easy to get at the local lumber yard, and it drys almost at once in the barrel what you leave behind off the patch. That way there is less danger of contamination of the next powder charge. It will also burn off when you fire the next charge...




