Round balls
#12
I agree with everything that Cayugan said except for one thing-
Dropping pure lead into water isn't going to harden the balls, in order for lead to respond to hardening by water is for it to contain a few % Antimony which will be drawn o the surface of the ball and harden a fairly thin layer of lead at the surface over a couple days time. Just be REAL careful with water around molten lead, it doesn't take much to get a lead explosion.
-Don't feed cold lead into a already molten pot- the lead may have a bit of dampness to it and could explode. let the pot cool, then add more lead.
-wax for fluxing is good stuff, but be prepared for it to flare up even before you light it.
-I've Tried Marvelux for fluxing, it works well, but I had a lead explosion from it- a little bit left on a spoon for about 10 minutes absorbed enough moisture from the air that when I tried to flux the pot again, the lead instantly exploded wqhen I dropped the flux into the pot- I wasn't burned at all, was wearing a wide brimmed hat, pants, boots, long sleeves, goggles, and welding gloves- make sure you wear similar gear.
-I really like a bottom pour pot- I got a Lee Production pot IV for about $45 that I use for casting. If you want to ladle it, don't go cheapon a ladle- get at least a RCBS or Lyman, my Lyman works well, but the Lee ladle is a joke and is completely worthless except for scraping out dross.
Don't overheat your lead- pure lead melts at around 600 degrees, but vaporizes at about 1100. You should only need ~750 degrees to fill a simple RB mould.
Dropping pure lead into water isn't going to harden the balls, in order for lead to respond to hardening by water is for it to contain a few % Antimony which will be drawn o the surface of the ball and harden a fairly thin layer of lead at the surface over a couple days time. Just be REAL careful with water around molten lead, it doesn't take much to get a lead explosion.
-Don't feed cold lead into a already molten pot- the lead may have a bit of dampness to it and could explode. let the pot cool, then add more lead.
-wax for fluxing is good stuff, but be prepared for it to flare up even before you light it.
-I've Tried Marvelux for fluxing, it works well, but I had a lead explosion from it- a little bit left on a spoon for about 10 minutes absorbed enough moisture from the air that when I tried to flux the pot again, the lead instantly exploded wqhen I dropped the flux into the pot- I wasn't burned at all, was wearing a wide brimmed hat, pants, boots, long sleeves, goggles, and welding gloves- make sure you wear similar gear.
-I really like a bottom pour pot- I got a Lee Production pot IV for about $45 that I use for casting. If you want to ladle it, don't go cheapon a ladle- get at least a RCBS or Lyman, my Lyman works well, but the Lee ladle is a joke and is completely worthless except for scraping out dross.
Don't overheat your lead- pure lead melts at around 600 degrees, but vaporizes at about 1100. You should only need ~750 degrees to fill a simple RB mould.
#14
Most rifles like a .490 ball with a .015-.018 lubed patch. I have heard that Lyman rifles prefer the .495. That is a reason I strongly suggest getting some from someone first and trying them out. Buy a box of the .490 ball and shoot them. See how your rifle does. Believe me, get some first and try them.
Otherwise, I have a .535 LEE double mold that was only used once. Guy at the store 20 odd years ago told me this was the ball mold for me. So I wanted to get into casting. Casted up a couple hundred ball and found that I needed a tree or a hammer to load the rifle. I tried a thinner patch and it would blow the patch out and the accuracy still suffered. I was shooting a T/C Renegade at the time. The fellow in the store shot a Lyman Great Plains rifle in .54 caliber.
I have found a use for the .535's. They make great wrist rocket ammo.
You can knock a squirrel for a loop with these things...
My CVA's, Traditions, and Thompson Centers all like the .490 ball size. Since your shooting a .495 now with good accuracy, then I would get a .495 mold. Why fix it if it ain't broke.....
Hope this helped...
Otherwise, I have a .535 LEE double mold that was only used once. Guy at the store 20 odd years ago told me this was the ball mold for me. So I wanted to get into casting. Casted up a couple hundred ball and found that I needed a tree or a hammer to load the rifle. I tried a thinner patch and it would blow the patch out and the accuracy still suffered. I was shooting a T/C Renegade at the time. The fellow in the store shot a Lyman Great Plains rifle in .54 caliber.
I have found a use for the .535's. They make great wrist rocket ammo.
You can knock a squirrel for a loop with these things...My CVA's, Traditions, and Thompson Centers all like the .490 ball size. Since your shooting a .495 now with good accuracy, then I would get a .495 mold. Why fix it if it ain't broke.....
Hope this helped...






