I agree with everything that Cayugan said except for one thing-

Dropping pure lead into water isn't going to harden the balls, in order for lead to respond to hardening by water is for it to contain a few % Antimony which will be drawn o the surface of the ball and harden a fairly thin layer of lead at the surface over a couple days time. Just be REAL careful with water around molten lead, it doesn't take much to get a lead explosion.

-Don't feed cold lead into a already molten pot- the lead may have a bit of dampness to it and could explode. let the pot cool, then add more lead.

-wax for fluxing is good stuff, but be prepared for it to flare up even before you light it.
-I've Tried Marvelux for fluxing, it works well, but I had a lead explosion from it- a little bit left on a spoon for about 10 minutes absorbed enough moisture from the air that when I tried to flux the pot again, the lead instantly exploded wqhen I dropped the flux into the pot- I wasn't burned at all, was wearing a wide brimmed hat, pants, boots, long sleeves, goggles, and welding gloves- make sure you wear similar gear.

-I really like a bottom pour pot- I got a Lee Production pot IV for about $45 that I use for casting. If you want to ladle it, don't go cheapon a ladle- get at least a RCBS or Lyman, my Lyman works well, but the Lee ladle is a joke and is completely worthless except for scraping out dross.

Don't overheat your lead- pure lead melts at around 600 degrees, but vaporizes at about 1100. You should only need ~750 degrees to fill a simple RB mould.