If someone could indulge me,could you tell me what type of Lead,is pictured on the PR Bullet Web Site.The picture where it is stacked on the Flatbed Trailor.Ide like to try my hand at Molding my own,but i really dont know about different kind's of Lead,Pure,Lyno ,Ect.I have access to the exact Bars on their web page,and just looking for a educated guess as to it's composition.

I use pure lead on my conicals and roundballs. I have used "street lead" as some call it, where you are not sure of the exact content, and some of it had fine results. The reason I like the pure lead is the expansion I get with the projectiles.

Thank's Cayugad.I was under the impression that Pure Lead was not a option,as it was to soft to withstand the pressures,of modern In Line's.Using it,will make casting a lot easier,as compared to trying to come up with a good Lino.What is the Best Mold Material? Aluminum,Cast Iron,Brass? Thank's for the time.Also im not going to sink a ton of money into equipment.Just a Lead Pot,Ladle,and a Mold or Two.Also how would one adjust weight's of completed Bullet's,to keep them all in the ball park,from batch to batch? Thank's!

I don't load for an in-line I load for a sidelock. Whether that would make a difference in the purity of lead I am not sure. As for the mold, I use a $17.95 double cavity LEE R.E.A.L. conical mold. I have them in .490 roundball, 300 grain (54 caliber), 380 grain (54 caliber), .530 RB and .535 RB.

I got my hands on an old cast iron pot at a flea market for about $2.00 and I use my turkey cooker stand as the smelter. I fire that up and put an old grate off a stove on the platform and the pot sits right on that. After the lead is melted, I drop a little bees wax in it to burn off the crud, scrap as much of anything else off, and then oil up the mold. The first few you check for flaws until the mold gets hot. After that you can turn them out rather fast. The conicals are real accurate out of a 1-48 twist. I am not sure what they would do in a 1-28 twist.. Good Luck