cayugad

It looks like an old Renegade because of lack of brass and the double triggers. But there were earlier T/C Rifles that also resembled this. Normally if its a Renegade it says so on the other side of the barrel. Other then some of the old kit guns.

newtraditions

yeah, there is nothing marked anywhere else on the gun. I wish there was because I would love to know more about the gun. I actually inherited this from my wifes grandpap so I don't even know any other details like when or where it was purchased.

Muley Hunter

It's definitely a Renegade. They weren't all marked with Renegade.

You have a good gun. I've owned 5 of them, but mine were all caplocks.


If you aren't familiar with the double set triggers. The front trigger is the shooting trigger. You first pull the rear trigger until it clicks. That sets the front trigger to a hair trigger. be very careful at first, because it's very light, and you only have to barely touch it to fire the gun. It will be something like 1/2 ounce pull. Very light!! You can also fire the gun by just pulling the front trigger without setting the rear trigger, but it's a very hard pull. Up to a 10lb pull, but that varies from gun to gun, but it will be a hard pull on all guns.

I can't stress enough how careful you have to be with the front trigger once you set it by pulling the rear trigger first.

Johnmorris

I think your gun is a TC Renegade not a Hawken it is a very good gun I have the same gun in Percussion

newtraditions

thanks for the help. with your help, i am hoping to go out in a couple weeks for the pa flintlock season.
if there is any other tips/advice/help you can think of, let me know. i appreciate the help.

archeryelk1

To go a little further with Muley Hunter's double set trigger info, there is a screw in between the two triggers that adjusts the amount of creep in the front trigger when you use the set trigger. It is only for using the set trigger, it doesn't change the front trigger creep at all if you just use the front trigger to set the gun off. Anyway most new to a T/C people see that screw adjusted out and think it's a loose screw, so they "tighten it". The farther in it is turned, the less creep adjustment in the front trigger, or in other words it makes for a really light front trigger when the set trigger is used. Instructions for setting it:
With the srew adjusted out set the hammer to half cock, pull the set trigger until it clicks, then adjust the screw slowly in a clockwise direction ("tighter") until you hear it release, then turn it back counter clockwise one full turn. This is the least amount it should ever be set at, or the least amount of creep adjustment. I prefer mine out further, as it is still a really light trigger...especially with a glove on.
By the way, nice looking Renegade. I agree with Muley Hunter on the 1 in 48 twist. I have one that shoots both roundball and Hornady great plains bullets in 425gr well with a 1 in 48 twist. I'd start with a .530 roundball and .015" patch, and a 70gr charge of goex ff and work up in 5gr increments from there to see what it shoots the best. Recover a few patches and make sure they aren't cut or burned through, you don't want any gas escaping by the patch when firing. I use a 70gr charge for target shooting roundball, a 80gr charge for deer hunting roundball, and a 100gr charge for the 425gr Hornady GPR's when elk hunting.

Blackpowdersmoke

Dave...

Renegade's NEVER did have brass!! And... I'm truly amazed that you conceded that "even bore butter" works as a patch lube...LOL!

newtraditions,

All of the advice you've been given so far is good. These fellas know what there talking about so listen up when they speak. Here's some advice I'll offer up... if you're new to shooting a flintlock, try priming the pan and firing the lock without loading the rifle. Do it just as if you would if you're going to bench shoot it or offhand. Do it a number of times until you're somewhat comfortable with the flash going off so close to your face. THEN load the rifle and shoot. This is something that many first time flintlock shooters have trouble dealing with... the flinch that comes with not being used to having a ball of fire so close to their face. It's commonly referred to as "flinter's flinch".

Another thing.... DON'T fill the flash pan with priming powder. You only need a few grains of powder to get a good shower of sparks heading into the vent liner (or touch hole if you will). I would guess that your rifle has the earlier style T/C vent liner and they work, but they're not the best. Try RMC sports or contact T/C about getting one of their new version vent liners and replace it, keep the old one for a spare. Get yourself a good quality brass pan primer (plunger type) from Track of the Wolf, RMC, or T/C and use it to charge your pan. They usually dispense about 3 grains of powder, which is good.

91% isopropyl alcohol is your friend... use it to keep your flint, frizzen face, and pan wiped clean. Moisten (not saturate) a piece of cloth with it and use it to wipe the surfaces while shooting, it dries in seconds. Use a vent pick to keep the vent open between shots. There are many styles available, the one I like has a retractable piano wire, but a pipe cleaner will work until you get something more permanent.

Welcome to the wonderful world of flintlock shooting! May your trials and tribulations be enjoyable. Good luck and enjoy that flinter!

BPS

newtraditions

Thanks all for the great advice. I was able to get my TC shooting pretty well. well enough to take it hunting this year for the PA Muzzleloader season. Didn't have the chance to harvest a deer but had a great time. I am hooked.
IS this the vent liner that was recommended in an earlier post:

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/17490

Thanks again for the help.

cayugad

I prefer the Allen Wrench head type but those should work. There used to be a company called RMC Sports that sold the kind I liked. I tried to search them and either I forgot the name or the company went under. They used to carry a ton of rifles and parts.

Be sure to put just a little dab of anti seize on those threads. It helps make them back out easier.

cayugad

#20642 Part number at Cain;s Outdoors are the ones I use. I always ended up scratching the wood of my rifles with the standard screw drivers slipped off that old standard vent liner. With the Allen Head they come out easier and you have some leverage for when they don't want to.