Milk
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
It is a concoction that is use to lube patches for Shooting patched round balls primarily. The one I prefered was based on water soluble oil a bit of detergent and water or in cold weather I used alcohol instead of water, I also added a bit of olive oil. A lot of us had our own recipe back when the PRB was our main answer.
#5
Here's a recipe for "Moose Juice" by a fella called Stumpy which is basically the same thing.
3 oz. Castor Oil
1 oz. Murphy's Oil Soap
4 oz. Witch Hazel
8 oz. 91% Isopropyl Alcohol
16 oz. Distilled Water
Mix all ingredients well, dip or soak patches in the "juice" then spread them out on wax paper and leave them until they become semi-dry. You can also keep some of the liquid in a small squirt bottle and moisten the patches as you shoot if you prefer.
I believe Cayugad has a concoction that he prefers that may be simpler to make.
BPS
#8
I have made is a couple ways.. I was never intended to be thought of as MY lube. Just I got tired of telling the Stumpy store finally. Stumpy is where I got the recipe from for using the castor oil. I often referred to it as Stumpy's Moose Milk. It just plain works for me. Prior to Stumpy's lube, I used and still do use, the NAPA formula. I have bottles of both of them in the house.
Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose black powder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 4 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
To make a dry patch, saturate the strip of cloth, then lay it out on an old window screen. I do this twice. But don't make a lot of it. If you put this in a baggie.. and forget about it, like after hunting season, it will turn the cloth black. And don't open the bag as there is a rather strong odor to it then.
Be sure when making the Moose milk to mix the alcohol and castor oil together first. Then add the witch hazel. Add all of this to the water and shake. Finally after that mixture is all together add the Murphy’s oil soap.
#1 NAPA Moose Milk
4 ounces NAPA Auto Parts #765-1526 Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil
1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap
7 ounces 91% Isopropyl alcohol
16 ounces tap water
This is an excellent patch lube, easy to make, and cheap to make. It works the same as Stumpy's formula other then the water soluble Cutting and Grinding oil. NAPA Auto parts sells the oil.
Stumpy also had a solid lube recipe and it works pretty good, but I like the liquid better.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
There are many various lubes out there. I like the NAPA and Stumpy's formula the best. I have been using them for years now. Another good one is your spit. Yes, Spit. Put that patch in your mouth and suck on it until its damp/wet. Then use it like you would any other patch. I have had some rifles that really like a spit patch.
Stumpy's Moose Milk
A general purpose black powder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 4 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
To make a dry patch, saturate the strip of cloth, then lay it out on an old window screen. I do this twice. But don't make a lot of it. If you put this in a baggie.. and forget about it, like after hunting season, it will turn the cloth black. And don't open the bag as there is a rather strong odor to it then.
Be sure when making the Moose milk to mix the alcohol and castor oil together first. Then add the witch hazel. Add all of this to the water and shake. Finally after that mixture is all together add the Murphy’s oil soap.
#1 NAPA Moose Milk
4 ounces NAPA Auto Parts #765-1526 Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil
1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap
7 ounces 91% Isopropyl alcohol
16 ounces tap water
This is an excellent patch lube, easy to make, and cheap to make. It works the same as Stumpy's formula other then the water soluble Cutting and Grinding oil. NAPA Auto parts sells the oil.
Stumpy also had a solid lube recipe and it works pretty good, but I like the liquid better.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
There are many various lubes out there. I like the NAPA and Stumpy's formula the best. I have been using them for years now. Another good one is your spit. Yes, Spit. Put that patch in your mouth and suck on it until its damp/wet. Then use it like you would any other patch. I have had some rifles that really like a spit patch.