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Replacing flint

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Old 09-17-2012 | 08:57 AM
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From: Bardstown Kentucky USA
Default Replacing flint

Was shooting my flintlock yesterday and suddenly noticed the flint was gone! Searched and searched the area without finding it. Fortunately, I had more. When I replaced the flint, the first time I fired, it failed to ignite the powder in the pan. I tried to square up the flint and align it as squarely as possible with the frizzen, fired again and the gun fired, but a small flake of flint was in the pan after the shot. I am very new at using a flintlock, and wondered if there are any tips or pointers I need when it comes to replacing the flint properly.
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Old 09-17-2012 | 09:00 AM
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Flipping it upside down from what you have sometimes helps. Is it the same brand of flint you lost?
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Old 09-17-2012 | 09:17 AM
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A few questions first DocHunter.

Are you using lead or leather for the flint wrap?
How many stirkes did the lost flint have before it disappeared?

It isn't unusual for me to have a new flint flake a bit on the first shot. I just chalk it up to the flint fitting itself to to frizzen.

I use lead to mount my flints in the cock, and always have to retighten the cockscrew after the first shot, and usually after the third or fourth shot, because the lead is forming itself to the flint with the first few strikes. After a few shots it locks itself in. But I still check the cockscrew after every half dozen shots or so.

In my Great Plains flinter the most common cause for a failure of the strike to ignite the pan is a loose flint.
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Old 09-17-2012 | 09:55 AM
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I use leather to tighten my flints. Also I have a diamond muzzy wheel that fits my dremel tool. With that I shape the top and bottom of my flints (wear goggles) and then they fit the jaws real nice and snug. I go through them and take the humps off the backs.

It is not uncommon for a new flint to flake. Especially if the flint is too large for the frizzen. For instance I have 3/4 flints I use in my Lyman. The T/C on the other hand and the Traditions I shoot are 5/8th. Many times I have had the outside edge break on them and lay in the pan. Especially after they have struck the frizzen a few times.

When you set your flint, square it to the frizzen face. Often the back end of a napped flint is not square. If you them square to the hammer then the front will be a little off. Hit that front right, at an angle and you are basically napping all over again. Set it square and you get a longer and there for hotter spark. And they don't break or dull as fast.

After you have set the flint and fired a couple times, take a screw driver and check the flint locking screw. That flint will move from striking the frizzen and often times come loose. And then you suddenly look down and no flint.

Have fun.
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Old 09-17-2012 | 11:29 AM
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Also, what flints are you using????

I use black english flints, Track of the Wolf carries them...
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Old 09-17-2012 | 05:43 PM
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Thanks for all the pointers.
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Old 09-18-2012 | 04:47 AM
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Where does one get the lead to hold the flint. I had been using leather.
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Old 09-18-2012 | 06:03 AM
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I smashed a round ball down thin enough to use. Works great, and is always available.
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Old 09-18-2012 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Muley Hunter
I smashed a round ball down thin enough to use. Works great, and is always available.
Great idea. Thanks. Does that give enough volume to wrap around the flint? I am shooting a .45 caliber.
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Old 09-18-2012 | 12:01 PM
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More than enough. You'll be amazed at how big a RB is when it's flattened out. If it's not big enough. You didn't flatten it enough.
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