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Old 08-08-2012 | 03:19 PM
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Spike
 
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I wanted to extend my hunting season here in Maine so I picked up a used T/C Black Diamond XR. I had some doubts at first but the price was right so...

After firing it I was impressed with how tight the groups were and how easy it was to shoot. I'm using # 11 caps with Pyrodex RS and T/C smackdown SSt bullets. My groups at 50 yards were under 2 inches and were shot offhand using 70 grs. of powder. I'm sure if I had a rest and a scope I could tighten that up.

I didn't even mind cleaning, despite the fact that you basically tear the gun down to do so. A little hoppes, some remington 40X bore cleaner and some hot soapy water and I had a dry clean patch.

On that I'm hooked I wonder if I should try PRB or should I cast some .430 44 cal. 245 swc and use sabots. I also shoot a Ruger Redhawk and could use the same bullet.

Basically I just want to shoot and would like to find a reasonable bullet cost wise to use. Any opinions?
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Old 08-08-2012 | 04:14 PM
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I have the same rifle. Patched roundball with 50 grains out to 50 yards don't do bad. But that's not really a hunting load. I have shot a lot of different projectiles out of the BDXR including some home made bullets I cast. I found mine shoots conical bullets real well, Shockwaves or SSTs excellent, a number of different store purchased bullets real well such as XTPs. You can purchase some of them in bulk to help cut the cost of the bullets.

If you want to cast, I really don't know what to tell you. I cast a 450 grain .504 conical that shoots "pretty good" with 80 grains of powder. I cast a .458 that weighs 423 grains that I shoot out of a Knight Orange Sabot that do real well. But its just hard to beat some of the store purchased bullets.

I do have a scope on mine and also shoot the #11 cap as I get excellent ignition and excellent accuracy.
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Old 08-08-2012 | 04:28 PM
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I like big conicals, like Buffalo bullets, Hornady great planes, or no excuses. 80-100 gr powder (whichever is most accurate) and you have a load that will take down anything from deer to elk.

I would not use Hoppes or Remington 40x cleaner. Those are for oil based cleaning and pyrodex/777/black powder cleans up nicely with hot soapy water followed by boiling water then a lightly soacked patch of Montana extreme bore conditioner.

If you don't like the hot soapy water routine, can use Butch's bore shine or montana extreme cowboy solvent, and T/C makes a cleaner (can even get cleaner soaked patches). There are a number of other black powder type cleaners available that are not oil based. Only time I use Hoppes is with BH 209, which is more like a smokeless powder cleanup.
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Old 08-08-2012 | 05:17 PM
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First welcome the fun of muzzleloading. And I agree with both above post. You can buy some 50 cal/.45 bullet sabots or 50 cal/.44 bullet sabots and the appropriate bullets. As Cayugad mentioned XTPs are good and my personal choice. I like the 300 grainers.
As for the cleaning aspect. Definately get and use a black powder or black powder substitute cleaner. There are several out on the market. Probably the easiest to get is Thompson Center's T-17. Its a great cleaner. I normally strip the gun down, swab the bore and when clean, run an alcohol patch down to dry it. Then give it a nice coat of quality gun oil. (be sure to remember to swab that oil out with a dry patch before shooting). Then clean the other parts paying close attention to the ones that get powder residue on. You want to clean that off and oil them so they don't corrode on you. But be careful again with the oil. Gun oil will contaminate a #11 cap really quickly.
One more thing. Be careful shooting your muzzleloader. A practice I've always done is after I shoot a load off, I blow down the muzzle. This serves 2 purposes: 1 It verifies the flash hole is clear (visible smoke coming out) and 2. It helps to extinguish any powder embers in the bore. (It wouldn't be any fun dumping another load of powder down the bore and havingit flare up in your face) So #3: watch where your muzzle is pointing during loading.
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Old 08-08-2012 | 06:00 PM
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A practice I've always done is after I shoot a load off, I blow down the muzzle.
I do that on occasion also. But don't do it on a commercial range. Some ranges are paranoid about that practice. It may get you a stern warning from the range master.
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Old 08-08-2012 | 06:19 PM
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For all you barrel blowers. This is how I do it, stay safe, and never get a nasty black powder taste in my mouth. The green part of course fits any caliber barrel. Then simply blow in the tube, and the smoke will roll out the nipple, 209, flintlock, what ever.. and all the embers are put out. I am sure Semisane will build one for a few cents.
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Old 08-08-2012 | 07:35 PM
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Yes, I have a home made blow tube. But never really use it.

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Old 08-09-2012 | 02:09 AM
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Great information. Guess I'll try casting some 44 cal bullets, I can use them in my other gun anyway. Otherwise I'll stick with the SSTs which are very accurate. My only problem is that they come 15 to a package for 14.95. That's a buck a shot. I've been casting for my .357 and it's a lot cheaper per shot.

Good advice about cleaning. I'll pick up some of thet T/C t17 and try that. Seems like there's always something else that needs to be pick up. Keeps me busy though, and off the street.
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Old 08-09-2012 | 07:00 AM
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Then simply blow in the tube, and the smoke will roll out the nipple, 209, flintlock, what ever.. and all the embers are put out.
Now that is one heck of a good idea. The next time I am at the doctor I will have to ask for a "lookie in the ear thing."
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Old 08-09-2012 | 09:39 AM
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Well I never shoot at a public range but good point for those who do.
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