Dutch

Thanks One. I just checked the scope at your suggestion. It appears to be okay. No movement and the screw heads are tight.

sabotloader

If it were mine I would positively say yes that area really could be your problem as the barrel heats and expands. Further if there were more pressure on one side or the other it would move POI away from the pressure.

The ideal of the Cantilever lug is to float the whole barrel to the recoil lug. They went to this method as that allowed them the flexibilty of creating a stock that would fit a whole of barreld actions with very minor hand work at Knight.

The best method would be if the stock fit snugly at all surfaces that touched the barrel. If you were to fully bed the stock that is what you would do.

If you take your stock off again look at the bridge, from one side of the stock to the other. just behind the lug pocket This and the recoil lug should be the only contact area in the stock...

If you want to do an experiment, find an aluminum pop can and cut a shim from it to fit in the bottom of the lug pocket. Insert it in the pocket and locate where the lug screw hole is. Then with a hole punch punch a hole in the shim. Now install the barreled action again - I bet it floats or is really close to floating.

Another thing if you look closely at the barrel channel in the stock you might be able to see polished area on the support rails where the bore as worn a smooth shiny spot.

I think you have really found your problem and very light progressive sanding is in order. Do not sand the bridge...

Breechplug

Befor I tried any of the following things that were commented on, and they were all good one's, I'd try shooting the MLer (without) a scope on it at say 40-50 yds and see what happens, how does it group then? If after everything you try, bullets, powder, sabots, bedding, scope, ect dont work then I'd say you have a Barrel that just does'nt like to be shot.
Good Luck!
(BP)

Dutch

Good morning Sabotloader and Breechplug,

Breech, unfortunately the rifle does not have open sights. Otherwise I would give that a try.

Sabotloader, if I can find time today (big if) I will fool around with it a little bit. I will try the pop can shim first. I will have some time for some more range work next week. Lets see what happens.

Again I have to tell everyone thank you for your help. I knew I would get good advice and help here.

Merry Christmas everyone.

jsteurrys

The screw on my .50 DISC Elite was too long. It bottomed in the lug before the barrel was tight to the receiver. I even rechased the threads with a bottoming tap to clean out the bottom couple of threads. The shim might correct this situation also. I bedded mine after a couple of range session with a moving POI and it has been rock solid ever since. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Dutch

Thanks JST, it sounds like you had the same issues as me. I am going to try the shim, then I will try bedding it. From the discussions here, plus the fact Leupold already reworked the scope, I am fairly convinced that it is a stock/bedding issue.

Merry Christmas.

Josmund

When you bedded the Elite did you just bed the recoil lug pocket or did you run up the barrel a ways?

I'm think of a bed job on my 45 Elite but floating barrel concept has my wondering.

Thanks...

jsteurrys

It is bedded just in front of the trigger to just in front of the recoil lug about 1". It is floated the rest of the way. All my Knights are done this way DISCs and MKs.

Chasam60

Dutch How fast are you shooting? My Omega will throw a flier on the third shot if I do not let it cool down. Mu stock is shimmed and the barrel floated back to the front lug. Try cooling down the barrel before you make yourself crazy.If it does not work,then try the other ideas posted here,they are all good ones.

Semper Fi
Charlie

jsteurrys

I take a minimum of 5 minutes and up to 10 minutes between shots depending on the outside temperature. I never shoot above 70 degrees as it takes too long for the barrel to cool back down.