Lee .54/300 REAL Mold
#1
Thread Starter
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
#2
That is a good price. Wonder how they would shoot out of the 1:70 barrel??
Do any of you guys use the Lee round ball mold? If so, how bad is the little iggity on the ball when cut off? I believe it is called the sprue? I'm old and forget.
I want to order a .530 mold but if that excess lead will cause flight problems, I'll just continue to use store bought Hornady balls.
Do any of you guys use the Lee round ball mold? If so, how bad is the little iggity on the ball when cut off? I believe it is called the sprue? I'm old and forget.
I want to order a .530 mold but if that excess lead will cause flight problems, I'll just continue to use store bought Hornady balls.
Last edited by bronko22000; 07-29-2011 at 09:39 AM.
#4
Lee, I don't cast that much so the Lee's will be good enough for me if I decide to go that route. My concern is the sprue on the bullet. How much effect does this have on bullet flight? My thoughts is that it would cause the bullet to be off balance and yaw in one direction or another.
#6
Thread Starter
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Bronko, all I use for round balls are Lee molds that I have in .54 and .58. I've probably cast over 2,000 balls from the .530 mold with no problems. The Lee mold leaves the nicest sprue cut off of about any mold. It leaves just a little flat spot on the ball - no protrusion. I firmly believe my cast balls group better than either Hornady or Speer swagged balls.
#7
I have used LEE molds for over twenty years. I would hate to think how many .50 and .54 caliber roundball I have cast out of them. And I cast the LEE REAL in .50 and .54 in both weights. They are still holding true.
I do leave the last projectile in the mold when I am done, and let it cool with the mold. I was told by an old time caster that it helps the mold from warping. Whether it does, who knows.
I have tried the REALs in slow twist barrel and discovered they did not shot well. They seem to do much better in the 1-48 and faster twist barrels.
I do leave the last projectile in the mold when I am done, and let it cool with the mold. I was told by an old time caster that it helps the mold from warping. Whether it does, who knows.
I have tried the REALs in slow twist barrel and discovered they did not shot well. They seem to do much better in the 1-48 and faster twist barrels.
#8
I hunted several years in the early aughts with a Lyman Trade Rifle and Lee REAL's that I cast. The only casting difficulty I have is that sometimes my molds do not close perfectly true. One block will be ~0.020 out of alignment with the other. I've got used to eyeballing the closed pair to make sure they are even. I guess there is just a little play in the aligning rod and groove in my set.
#9
Good bullet, caliber and mold. I have it and have been shooting thsi bullet in my Hawken Carbine for years now. Now the twist rate in my carbine is 1 in 24".
Bronko, I would think this bullet would be any good in a gun with a twist rate like 1 in 70"
Now I haven't used my carbine lately since I installed my new optics:
Bronko, I would think this bullet would be any good in a gun with a twist rate like 1 in 70"
Now I haven't used my carbine lately since I installed my new optics:



