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Taking the Flinter out

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Old 04-13-2011 | 04:29 PM
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i'll get the pics off the camera later tonight.
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Old 04-13-2011 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RobertSubnet
No pics of that rifle?

Last week I to had my flinter out. For the first time I used lead instead of leather to hold the flint. I could not believe the difference: good sparks, no flash in the pan and the flint face held up very well, no chipping. I will be using lead from now on!
Lead works good, but keep checking to make sure it stays tight. It wants to work loose more than leather.
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Old 04-13-2011 | 04:52 PM
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i found it to be the opposite muley.

I have leather right now but it came loose just after 9 shots today. Lead seems like it produces more spark for some reason.
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Old 04-13-2011 | 04:56 PM
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Lead adds a touch of weight to the hammer and doesn't act as a shock absorber as leather can...This helps some locks spark a bit better...
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Old 04-13-2011 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MountainDevil54
i found it to be the opposite muley.

I have leather right now but it came loose just after 9 shots today. Lead seems like it produces more spark for some reason.

Groan. Nobody believes me about anything.

Here's another opinion. Read the first post. I can find a lot more.


http://www.bersachat.com/forums/show...old-your-flint.
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Old 04-13-2011 | 07:10 PM
  #16  
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"Lead does not give, or bounce, and it doesn't let a flint bounce when it hits the frizzen. Lead holds the flint firmly in the jaws of the ****, and provides weight to drive the flint into the frizzen and down in a scraping action to cut and throw very hot steel bits into the priming pan. If the lock is tuned properly, the angle of the **** to the frizzen will be correct and the flint will not only scrape steel from the frizzen in one continuous stroke, but will be self-knapping. That is, it will make a new edge every time the gun is fired. There will be no need to knap the flint, as it will not clog its edge with steel."

yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints.
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Old 04-13-2011 | 07:20 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by MountainDevil54
"Lead does not give, or bounce, and it doesn't let a flint bounce when it hits the frizzen. Lead holds the flint firmly in the jaws of the ****, and provides weight to drive the flint into the frizzen and down in a scraping action to cut and throw very hot steel bits into the priming pan. If the lock is tuned properly, the angle of the **** to the frizzen will be correct and the flint will not only scrape steel from the frizzen in one continuous stroke, but will be self-knapping. That is, it will make a new edge every time the gun is fired. There will be no need to knap the flint, as it will not clog its edge with steel."

yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints.
Oh, we're going to pick and choose what we quote? Did you miss him saying this knucklehead?

It takes a few shots for a flint to "set up" in lead, unlike a leather wrap, so you have to initially check the tension on your **** screw about every 5 shots, but it will hold the flint firmly once the lead forms to the smooth surfaces of the flint. About every 30 shots you will need to check the flint to see where it is throwing the sparks. You may have to move it forward in the ****, and use a piece of twig behind the lead wrap to keep the flint wedged in the forward position. Aren't you glad that Mother Nature provides us with twigs virtually everywhere?
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Old 04-13-2011 | 07:47 PM
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Lead works better for me in my Great Plains. But you do have to tighten it after the first three or four shots, then again after a dozen or so. After that it stays tight until the flint needs repositioning.
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