Taking the Flinter out
#12
No pics of that rifle?
Last week I to had my flinter out. For the first time I used lead instead of leather to hold the flint. I could not believe the difference: good sparks, no flash in the pan and the flint face held up very well, no chipping. I will be using lead from now on!
Last week I to had my flinter out. For the first time I used lead instead of leather to hold the flint. I could not believe the difference: good sparks, no flash in the pan and the flint face held up very well, no chipping. I will be using lead from now on!
#15
Groan. Nobody believes me about anything.
Here's another opinion. Read the first post. I can find a lot more.
http://www.bersachat.com/forums/show...old-your-flint.
#16
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 9,186
Likes: 0
From: Boncarbo,Colorado
"Lead does not give, or bounce, and it doesn't let a flint bounce when it hits the frizzen. Lead holds the flint firmly in the jaws of the ****, and provides weight to drive the flint into the frizzen and down in a scraping action to cut and throw very hot steel bits into the priming pan. If the lock is tuned properly, the angle of the **** to the frizzen will be correct and the flint will not only scrape steel from the frizzen in one continuous stroke, but will be self-knapping. That is, it will make a new edge every time the gun is fired. There will be no need to knap the flint, as it will not clog its edge with steel."
yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints.
yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints.
#17
"Lead does not give, or bounce, and it doesn't let a flint bounce when it hits the frizzen. Lead holds the flint firmly in the jaws of the ****, and provides weight to drive the flint into the frizzen and down in a scraping action to cut and throw very hot steel bits into the priming pan. If the lock is tuned properly, the angle of the **** to the frizzen will be correct and the flint will not only scrape steel from the frizzen in one continuous stroke, but will be self-knapping. That is, it will make a new edge every time the gun is fired. There will be no need to knap the flint, as it will not clog its edge with steel."
yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints.
yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints.
It takes a few shots for a flint to "set up" in lead, unlike a leather wrap, so you have to initially check the tension on your **** screw about every 5 shots, but it will hold the flint firmly once the lead forms to the smooth surfaces of the flint. About every 30 shots you will need to check the flint to see where it is throwing the sparks. You may have to move it forward in the ****, and use a piece of twig behind the lead wrap to keep the flint wedged in the forward position. Aren't you glad that Mother Nature provides us with twigs virtually everywhere?
#18
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Lead works better for me in my Great Plains. But you do have to tighten it after the first three or four shots, then again after a dozen or so. After that it stays tight until the flint needs repositioning.



