I know I have months until I start shooting the cva plainsman flintlock I have layaway, my main plan is to start buying or making what i need for it.

I know I need, a vent pick, knipping tools, pan brush, and most likely flints.

would an paper clip or other thin metal and use piece of dowel rod has an handle work?

knipping tools, I am still working on an idea for.

would nylon paint brushes work for an pan brush?


really early for this question but...........
I know the main thing about flintlocks is "USE REAL BLACK POWDER". but would an pryodex p pan charge work? I have goex 2f I can use as the main charge.


all this is just help budget and plan.

ps
i already did my powder budget for this year. it is not pretty. lol

Use the GOEX FFg in the pan. It will work fine, and better than Pyrodex P. The paint brush and paper clip will do the job. A one-inch or three-quarter inch brush is about right. Cut the bristles short to stiften them up a little. I don't use a brush myself, but wipe the pan and frizzen with a cotton wash cloth or a patch. I do recommend you get a pan charger though. Most anything will do for knapping the flint - the back of a heavy knife blade, a six inch section of 1/4" brass or copper rod, etc.

Paper clips or small pipe brushes work great for the flash hole. I never had a need for a pan brush. There is always a touch of condensation on the pan also, so I always just use a dry soft cloth. I use the back of a sturdy knife for a "knapping tool" for my flints.

Personally I would buy a can of 3F and use it for your pan and load if you do not want to buy separate pan powder. I use 3F in the barrel and 7F in the pan in my FL's.

I would not use Pyrodex in the rifle, anywhere.

I mostly just shoot round ball in my FL's. But I do shoot some conicals in my Lyman Deer Stalker.

What is the twist rate on your new rifle??

There is a fellow on "The Traditional Muzzleloader" forum that makes and sells custom flints for about $13(shipped) a dozen, and they are quality flints. I think I have his E-Mail. If you want the information then send me a PM and I will give you the information. However he will need to know exactly what size flint you need for your rifle. So you will need to measure the flint for your new rifle so he can make them the correct size.

Corey have fun with your new FL. It is a different world than shooting a Percussion rifle. Just remember one thing when shooting a FL, and you will hit bullseyes every shot. FOLLOW THROUGH. Tom.

Corey you really need to pick up both the 348 and 405gr Powerbelts for that Plainsman flinter. Them suckers with 70gr 3F goex would do some scary chit at 100 yards group wise in my old plainsman i had!

As MD mentioned, I was curious what you'd be sending down the barrel, what's it twisted for?

Definately you will need a pan primer. And remember, you don't need much powder in the pan. If you put too much in and cover the flash hole you will get a delay. Some call it 'the fuse effect' cause the pan powder acts just like a fuse and must burn up before hitting the main charge.

thanks guys,

i will know more about the twist once it is in my hand more, forgot to check to see when it was made, sometimes that helps to figure out what the most likely twist would be.

i don't think my local source for real black has 4f but i do know that they have 3f. already been on graf & sons website and priced out powder. just gotta talk jess into letting me buy an bulk. lol

md, i have those powerbelts on hand. also have lee reals on hand too to play with.

really hoping to get out of layaway sooner then I am planning that way i can get all the info i really need.

I use a small make up brush for a pan brush...I do think you need one of these, not to clean after shooting but to clean when you don't shoot so you leave no powder in the pan...I use one when I'm going to pull my flinter up in the stand or when I didn't get a shot and I'm leaving her charged...It only takes a couple of grains to ignite a flintlock so don't drop the hammer on the frizzen with a charge in the barrel...

You also need a cover to put over the frizzen...They are made of leather and I have a leather thong attached to mine so I can slip it over the frizzen and the other end is tied to my trigger guard...

Make a touch hole pick...Take a small finishing nail and a deer antler tip...Drill a small hole into the tip and epoxy the nail into the end and you have a touch hole pick...

I use a larger finishing nail to knap the frizzen...You can use your short starter as a hammer to knap...

Substitute powders can be used as the main load if a booster charge of 5-10 grains of black powder is loaded first before the sub. powder is loaded.

According to the Hodgdon website:

There's at least one long rifle flintlock shooter who has posted range reports and chronograph results about the performance of his flintlocks when loaded with sub. powders with a booster charge. He's had absolutely reliable performance even with 777 using this method.
Of course he has a reliable high quality lock that virtually always fires for him every time without any swabbing between shots at all during his long shooting sessions.
There have also been a few reports about folks who have used only Pyrodex in the pan for priming. It can be made to work but not very reliably as there would also be many misfires too.
Every pound of black powder contains a greater or lesser percentage of "fines" in it - 4f black powder granules. Some of these can be sifted out and used for priming. But the remaining powder should be well mixed for best consistency and performance. Considering that many use 2f for the main charge anyway, any fines in the container shouldn't be missed if they were removed for priming.
And a lot of folks simply use 3F for both priming and their main load to save on needed to buy 2 different types of powder.
A pound of 4f may be enough to last the single flintlock rifle owner a lifetime.