what mold are you guys using for your 54 caliber round balls?? I am assuming you are shooting a .530 size?? But what brand mold?? Do you like the mold you have?? Lets talk about casting for the 54 caliber. I have never molded any, but I don't think it would be much different than a 50??

What patch are you guys using with the.530 roundball in a 38" barreled FL??

Anything else you would like to tell me about the 54?? I figure an 80 grain load??

I ordered a new TVM today, and Cayugad has about got me talked into changing the order from a 50 caliber to a 54 caliber. However I have only owned 50 calibers, so I have no experience with the 54. But I think I am going to trust him and do what he says, and go with the 54. That way I have someone else to blame!! I can hear me now. "But honey Cayugad said I had to have a 54". Thanks, Tom.

I use a .530 Lee mold and a .530 TC Mold. The Lee leaves a small burr of a sprue but the TC mold leaves absolutely nothing, just a tiny little flat spot. Extremely hard to find, i got lucky with this mold when i traded a gun for a GPR, he threw the mold into the deal.

You'll love the .54cal and the holes it leaves in deer and elk.

I been using Lee molds. sorry, my 54cal is out for repairs again. sending the lock off to my lock repair guy. so, no target pics.

sad thing is, I have about 250 to 300 rbs of soft, range and WW lead ready to go, lol

don't forget about the conicals for it too, just got an 54cal conical mold for it. have not cleaned it up yet.

I have 3 54 caliber PRB rifles and both Lee and Lyman molds I ended up using a .535 ball in al 3 with a 18 thou .ticking patch because thats what grouped in less than 3 inches 2100 yds. the 54 is by far the best for long range because it is the one with the highest BC that has a recoil that allows you to shoot it accurate.

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The rifle builder will normally tell you the correct ball size to use. Depending on the make of the barrel. One person I know had a custom FL made and was told what mold to purchase, even the patch thickness. Also normally the builder will test fire the rifle to make sure it is accurate, the barrel true, and to discover just what size bore the rifle has. So be sure and listen to them.

As for the amount of powder the rifle will take. Again, the builder of the rifle will give some recommendations. But I have seen some custom rifles that handle up to 140 grains of 2f powder and shoot it very well. With that longer barrel, you have also increased the amount of powder you can handle and get a complete burn. So I would start at 80 grains and work the rifle up from there.

Also there is nothing wrong with a .50 caliber rifle. I just personally like a .54 caliber. The rifle barrel is also normally lighter. They have to remove more metal from that barrel to make the bigger caliber, hence a lighter barrel. In my rifles I find that the .54 caliber is usually more accurate then the .50 at longer distances. Remember that ball is 33% heavier. That makes more energy down range, but I also think it makes them able to buck winds and other things that effect the flight of a projectile. I guess that is one reason I like big lead conical bullets as well.

Also if you ever get a chance to say hunt elk. That .54 is far superior in damage to an animal then say the .50 caliber. You are not going to always get a pass through on the large game like elk and moose. Granted, shot placement was the same. On a deer you might not notice the difference in the wound channel because 9 out of 10 it will be a complete pass through. With a .54 caliber and just 80 grains (might have been 90) of Pyrodex I was able to shoot through one deer, killing it, and breaking the spine of a second deer standing behind that, knocking it down. That is the kind of power that caliber has.

But please don't let me talk you into anything, and I mean this. If you like the .50 caliber then get that. It will serve you fine. If I were to order the same rifle tomorrow, I would be asking if it came in .58 or .62 caliber. I am a lead freak. But most traditional shooters always praise the accuracy and ability to take game, of the .54 caliber.

As far as my molds, I use a LEE double mold in .530 and I had a LEE double mold in .535 which I sold. I just could not load that ball down my barrel comfortably. Although the new mold owner sent me some and they do load nice in my Lyman Trade Rifle, but not in my T/C rifles or my CVA or my Tradition rifles.

I also swear by pre cutting my patches at the muzzle. I do not use a pre cut patch. I purchase 100% cotton pillow tick blue stripe and red stripe.. same thing. It mics to .018 normally. I wash that and then line dry it. If I am going hunting, I dry lube them using moosemilk. If I am range shooting I lube at the range with moosemilk in a spritzer bottle.

You didn't mention what the rate of twist was and if you are shooting conicals. I pure my own R.E.A.L bullets. I have a 1 in 24" twist rate and normally shoot the Barnes Expander Sabot during hunting. To go cheap the rest of the year, I practise with the conicals. I am using a Lee Mould for the R.E.A.L bullets.

Now on my .58 cal. I use commercial RBs. I figure it is cheaper and less time consuming to go commercial. And this give me more time to make them conicals.

The one I built back in the 80s has an Ed Rayle barrel on her...I ordered a .530 Rapine bag mold and have used that for the past 20 years or so...Earlier this year someone on here (I believe either Lemone or Semisane) mentioned that Lee had a bargain basement sale and their .530 molds were on there for about $20...I picked one of them up as well, have it in the basement and plan to use when the weather breaks...

As for patching, I use the blue cotton pillow ticking from WalMart for about 4-5 bucks a yard...I cut at the loading block or muzzle...I've never miked it but it the way the ball loads, I believe it's .018...

I started with 120grs FF Goex years ago, then went to 100grs FF and the last 8-10 years have ended up with 80grs FFF Goex as both prime and the main charge...

From what I hear, most guys use a .530 ball with either .015 or .018 patching...I use the .018 patch with a clean barrel or even for a dirty 2nd shot...After then, I have 2 balls with .015 patching around them for easier loading with a fouled barrel...

I'd pick up a box of .530 balls in the next few months and start with them, if they are too tight or loose, melt them down...There is also a guy that has been written up in one of the bp mags that custom makes molds and sells .526 or .527 molds for even tighter bores...

I might even have some old .535s in the basement...I might could be talked into mailing you 10-12 .535s, .530s and a strip of the WalMart ticking so you will have something to start with...

Another thought...With a new gun, I like to cut a strip of ticking about 10-12 inches long...I then start a ball, having the ball in the middle of the ticking, then you can pull the balll out with the extra ticking...

This lets you know how easily it loads and you can look at the ball for the marking left in it so you know if it's engaging the rifling...

One final thought...If the barrel profile is the same (I'm guessing you are going with a C weight)...I'd surely go with a .54...If you want a little lighter barrel (B weight) and it's offered in a .50 and not a .54 then you might want to stick with the .50...

I just spoke to the builder again.

She said the 54 caliber barrel will be heavier than the 50 caliber. The barrel is a Rice swamped 38" barrel. With a 1in66 twist.

According to the builder the Rice used for the 50 caiber is a 7/8" barrel. And the one used for the 54 caliber is a 15-16" barrel. And when weighed in comparison the 54 caliber is slighlty heavier than the 50 caliber.

The lock is a Large Siler. Tom.

I have shot 54 cal for 30 years CVA TC Lyman. I now own a 54 cl 1x66 St Louis Hawken. Two Lyman Deer Stalkers in 1x48 one flint one percussion. I hae owned CVA mountain rifle with a 32 in 1x48. i also had a TC Renegade in 54.. I wish I had them all yet. I used PBR Maxi Balls powerbelts and sabots over the years. I wish I could get a 54 cal for my Encore. I think it is the best over all caliber to own even if you only have one.