Originally Posted by
HEAD0001
what mold are you guys using for your 54 caliber round balls?? I am assuming you are shooting a .530 size?? But what brand mold?? Do you like the mold you have?? Lets talk about casting for the 54 caliber. I have never molded any, but I don't think it would be much different than a 50??
What patch are you guys using with the.530 roundball in a 38" barreled FL??
Anything else you would like to tell me about the 54?? I figure an 80 grain load??
I ordered a new TVM today, and Cayugad has about got me talked into changing the order from a 50 caliber to a 54 caliber. However I have only owned 50 calibers, so I have no experience with the 54. But I think I am going to trust him and do what he says, and go with the 54. That way I have someone else to blame!! I can hear me now. "But honey Cayugad said I had to have a 54".
Thanks, Tom.
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The rifle builder will normally tell you the correct ball size to use. Depending on the make of the barrel. One person I know had a custom FL made and was told what mold to purchase, even the patch thickness. Also normally the builder will test fire the rifle to make sure it is accurate, the barrel true, and to discover just what size bore the rifle has. So be sure and listen to them.
As for the amount of powder the rifle will take. Again, the builder of the rifle will give some recommendations. But I have seen some custom rifles that handle up to 140 grains of 2f powder and shoot it very well. With that longer barrel, you have also increased the amount of powder you can handle and get a complete burn. So I would start at 80 grains and work the rifle up from there.
Also there is nothing wrong with a .50 caliber rifle. I just personally like a .54 caliber. The rifle barrel is also normally lighter. They have to remove more metal from that barrel to make the bigger caliber, hence a lighter barrel. In my rifles I find that the .54 caliber is usually more accurate then the .50 at longer distances. Remember that ball is 33% heavier. That makes more energy down range, but I also think it makes them able to buck winds and other things that effect the flight of a projectile. I guess that is one reason I like big lead conical bullets as well.
Also if you ever get a chance to say hunt elk. That .54 is far superior in damage to an animal then say the .50 caliber. You are not going to always get a pass through on the large game like elk and moose. Granted, shot placement was the same. On a deer you might not notice the difference in the wound channel because 9 out of 10 it will be a complete pass through. With a .54 caliber and just 80 grains (might have been 90) of Pyrodex I was able to shoot through one deer, killing it, and breaking the spine of a second deer standing behind that, knocking it down. That is the kind of power that caliber has.
But please don't let me talk you into anything, and I mean this. If you like the .50 caliber then get that. It will serve you fine. If I were to order the same rifle tomorrow, I would be asking if it came in .58 or .62 caliber. I am a lead freak. But most traditional shooters always praise the accuracy and ability to take game, of the .54 caliber.
As far as my molds, I use a LEE double mold in .530 and I had a LEE double mold in .535 which I sold. I just could not load that ball down my barrel comfortably. Although the new mold owner sent me some and they do load nice in my Lyman Trade Rifle, but not in my T/C rifles or my CVA or my Tradition rifles.
I also swear by pre cutting my patches at the muzzle. I do not use a pre cut patch. I purchase 100% cotton pillow tick blue stripe and red stripe.. same thing. It mics to .018 normally. I wash that and then line dry it. If I am going hunting, I dry lube them using moosemilk. If I am range shooting I lube at the range with moosemilk in a spritzer bottle.